I didn't have any Araldite left so had to settle for some Araldite rapid to fix a broken plastic kettle lid. It never seemed to set as hard as original Araldite but worse than that it seems to have degraded from the steam.
I see now Araldite is not recommended for food containers nor above
65C.So are there any glues for plastic which will work in steam?
Is Araldite rapid substantially less strong than Araldite original?
AJH
My observation with rapid variety is that it goes off within 10 minutes but still remains relatively soft and sticky for at least 24 hours or longer. How long after application did you use the kettle.
Araldite will (eventually) set hard. the sort of plastic in a kettle is pliable and so they will never stay stuck together. Try the base of the kettle or somewhere out of sight with ABS solvent weld cement.
I was in Wilkinsons the other day and they were flogging this stuff. (UV curing glue).
Anyone tried it?
Tim
Probably less than 24 hours but I'll try Bob's idea next.
AJH
Superglue works on some plastic too, as a solvent weld rather than using its more conventional moisture-setting glue.
Superglue is an anaerobic adhesive i.e. it cures in the absence of air not the presence of moisture
Yes about rapid as it seems to get hotter and presumably is slightly fractured by expansion.
To use Araldite on stuff like that you need some additive I seem to recall. We used to use it to repair pcbs with added 'stuff' which made it better at taking the heat inside vavle tellies of the day. Brian
So I should leave the lid off to prevent it drying-up in the container?
That would explain why it's so useless for gluing skin together (NOT!).
Tim
wrong.
In general, cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerises in the presence of water (specifically hydroxide ions), forming long, strong chains, joining the bonded surfaces together. Because the presence of moisture causes the glue to set, exposure to normal levels of humidity in the air causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which very greatly slows the reaction. Because of this cyanoacrylate is applied thinly, to ensure that the reaction proceeds rapidly for bonding.
ISTR that rapid is slightly less strong than original.
Both types start to degrade reasonably fast at around 130 C, so may well not take continous operation at 100. I've repaired teapot lids with it. As others have said, other glues might be better depending on the plastic.
The secret to having epoxy that doesn't soften when hott is to stove it at over 100C when its setting.
That's how I rep[air all my china. The assembled parts are put in an oven at 110C or so for half an hour. That sets most '24 hour' epoxies.
If you go hotter the epoxy can be set in under 5 minutes.
It goes clear at a certain point. That's as hot as you should let it get.
Otherwise it starts to boil, and you get bubbles.
An A Level in chemistry hardly make you a chemist, despite your claims. I dread to think what else is in your cv.
As a student I had a job winding transformers. If the bobbins broke we used araldite and then played the oxy-acetelyn torch over it to set the glue. I imagine the transformers, which were used in high-voltage stabilisation un its got quite hot.
Jonathan
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