What do the professionals do when fitting almost any modern imported
ceiling light fitting to an existing 3 plate ceiling rose outlet?
I am faced with flat backed LED units, pendants with little space for
terminal blocks....etc. The manufacturers seem to assume there will be a
single 3 core cable feed!
You're not supposed to have unenclosed terminals in the void... But a
slimline junction box designed for downlighters would be OK, if you
couldn't make a BESA sized hole. Klix connectors (did I spell that
right), the blue plug/socket are also an option and are very slim. Will
take 3 cables in one end, designed for loop through+switch drop.
Wagos seem to be the way to go if you can fit them all within the light fit
ting itself. Unfortunetly if you need to push them into the void then the s
maller lighting junction box will not take all the cables of a loop in syst
em whilst the larger box will require quite a large hole which may be diffi
cult to conceal with the light fitting.
When fitting some awkward light fittings at my daughters new build, the cei
ling roses were not attached to joists but were attached to a piece of chip
board affixed to two joists with a tight hole just allowing the cables to p
oke through and then filled with intumescent sealant. So no way of fitting
a JB without access from above, I did however manage to cut away enough of
the PB to get a 5A terminal strip in and still cover the resulting hole.
Looks to make for a very quick job* but I paused over "Fits through 32mm
hole." Patently true for a box with cross-section 23 x 31 mm. But with
power and switch cables at opposite ends it seems to me the bend radius
has to be taken into account when poking one through a hole in the
ceiling. That seems to me to make it nearer 23 x 50 mm for 1mm T&E.
Still smaller than Wagobox or J501 though.
*for some: it'd take me some time to strip all 3 cores and the sheath to
the +/- 1mm length needed to clamp them all :(
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid
Yup, it looks like a nice concept, but it is a shame that they have the
switch wire on the opposite end from the feed and loop in connections.
I have not actually tried one, but wonder if the Click lighting JBs
would not be a better option:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2019 04:58:31 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
Had the same problem, especially as I was changing some to 2-way switching.
Used some Hager non-maintained JBs, put in all of the wires and shoved into
the ceiling void. Most of these plates are big enough to cover the hole
In a similar vein, the wall- (or ceiling-) mounted fittings assume that
there'll be somewhere for the cable to go. I usually use a plinth suitably
drilled and segment-type* mini-trunking.
*Bloody curved trunking that I bought t'other day opens on 1 side only, so
the keyed hinge is a bit delicate and I can't run the top end just into the
ceiling - this was useful for 'adjustment'.
Umm.. I have adopted variants of the suggestions given. Usually, the
electrician has located the ceiling rose such that the fixing screws
find the timber joist with the cables to the side. Often the cables have
been clipped nearby leaving little free movement as well as requiring
too large an access hole to be covered by the fitting:-(
The other gripe is that the Edison screw bulb connector is commonly
permanently secured to the light shade. This results in having to
support the light while fiddling about connecting the 0.75mm2 flex the
Orientals seem to feel adequate. Clearly they are equipped with a 3rd
Where there is a double plasterboard thickness (fireproofing) I have
resorted to simply recessing the ceiling rose base. Avoids the exposed
terminals in the void but leaves a slight sense of unease at what some
future electrician might have to say.
I have untested concerns about clamp type connectors, particularly where
there may be a mix of wire gauges. I have some small junction boxes for
the last two ceiling mounted LED fittings.
Especially when you try and remove one of those Quickwire
connectors without the 'special removal tool' :-)
PS the website states :-
"If required the Quickwire can be fitted onto a surface using the
Quickwire mounting clip (order separately). Warning: Do not cover"
I thought all connectors had to be mechanically fixed, and not
rely on adjacent cable clamps ?.
Also the cable entry and exit means existing cable clips won't work.
Are there double-height cable clips allowing cables to be clipped
on piggy-back ?.
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