Parkside chainsaw oiler

You certainly don't want the oil to run out first!

My little McCulloch seems to need more oil than fuel leading to having to replace a couple of chains recently. Curious that the chain bearing surface wear leads to tilt which must put more load on the already worn surface.

Reply to
Tim Lamb
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Hmm,

Had a closer look and the oil outlet is discharging in brief fits and starts and blowing bubbles so I think there must be an air leak somewhere. The problem is getting to it! I?ve drained to tank but the filter isn?t accessible without major disassembly

It looks like I have to start with removing the clutch but that?s easier said than done.

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It looks like it?s just a press-fit on to the crankshaft as I can?t find any other securing screws. The end of the shaft definitely isn?t threaded.

I do have a puller but as the only thing to hook the puller onto is the back of the pressed steel clutch ?drum?, I?m wary of giving it too much welly. Maybe I just need to be braver?

If it does just pull off, I?m not sure how I?ll refit it short of a bit of careful hammer work as the other end of the crank isn?t accessible to apply any counter-pressure to if I wanted to press it on.

Any thoughts?

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Because that?s what the manual says.

Yep. I?ve used a couple of tanks of fuel and the oil reservoir has hardly dropped. Used to use about two to three tanks of fuel to one of oil.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

I found that I got tilt when the chain was blunt. When its fresh and sharp - and that's about every other tankful, it just walks through the wood without needing any pressure

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

When they stand for a while, the oil tends to solidify. You may have to disassemble and clean out the pump. (That Elm tree I cut down a few Years ago I couldn't have cut had the clutch not gummed up. hehe)

Reply to
Johann Klammer

Doesn't "Off" suggests that it's a left hand thread, on the Y-shaped bit. IIRC there was something very similar in my Ryobi petrol model, I had to shock-load it because there was no easy way of applying a torque reaction. Well, I suppose I could have taken the plug out and shoved a wooden stick down the plug hole.

Reply to
newshound

Somewhere on line, there will be an exploded parts diagram. The clutch could be threaded on to the crank shaft. That big arrow might be a sign but don't sue me if you break something:-)

Reply to
Tim Lamb

I've not managed to find one for mine. But as I just said, I'd bet on the clutch being screwed on to the crank shaft, and not particularly tight since the drive motion will keep it tensioned against its stop.

Reply to
newshound

That is the recommended method

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Good point! Almost certainly.

Could put oil in cylinder and put the plug back in.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

An option, but a sharp hammer tap using a suitable drift was all that it needed.

Reply to
newshound

I tried whacking with a drift and hammer but no joy.

Good news though is that I got an impact driver as an early Christmas present and with the aid of a hacked up socket, the clutch spun off the shaft!

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Now to start investigating further?

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

That seems reasonable then ;-)

Mine are both electric. From memory a tank lasts a perhaps couple of hours intermittent use.

Reply to
Brian

Great, please keep posting then I can decide whether to attack mine!

Reply to
newshound

I got the pump out and after finding one on Amazon for £3.99 delivered tomorrow, it seems daft not to replace it. ;-)

Not sure how they do it at that price. The cheapest on eBay was about £8 and delivery is about 3 weeks. The Chinese ones do come with hoses and a new filter too and I may regret going ?cheap? but it?s hardly gonna break the bank.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Well done

That looks like a copy of the Husqvarna type

Well at least blow back through the hose and see if it is clear. What I have seen is that a plug of fine sawdust forms in the flexible pipe, and can be kneaded out along the pipe if an air line is not available.

On Husqvarnas there is a screw with a conical end that determines the stroke length of the oil plunger, the cam retracts the piston and the spring pushes the oil out.

Reply to
AJH

As a post script that appears to be an Einhell saw, designed in Germany and made in china for the likes of Spear and Jackson as well as Aldi. I have one that a customer asked my chainsaw dealer to dispose of as it was "unsafe", dealer declined but as I was at the counter I took it off the chap's hands. It just needed a new chain.

It's not a bad saw but a bit gutless and the oil tank does run out sooner than the petroil. Stihl MS180 is probably a better cheap saw from new.

It's in the shed with about a half dozen that I have repaired and the owners never collected them.

Reply to
AJH

It?s this pump.

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Probably gonna be crap but worth a shot. Will certainly be back-flushing oil lines and filter first.

When this one dies for good I?ll almost certainly invest in a Stihl but given that it always starts first time and owes me nothing, it seems disloyal to ditch it if a repair is easy. ;-)

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

That is similar to the Husqvarna, it's the plastic/nylon worm drive that turns the pump plunger that normally fails.

Where does it say that fits your saw?

Reply to
AJH

I gambling that as it looks almost exactly like mine it?s gonna work. Despite my misgivings over the price, it?s actually been dispatched. Half expected a follow up email telling me it was gonna have to come from China.

Hopefully I?ll be able to confirm tomorrow whether it fits or not.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

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