Painting and brush marks

Hi,

What are the best ways of preventing brush marks? I am not expecting perfection the windows are covered in orange undercoat, I am intending to use Crown Satin Solo.

Reply to
James Salisbury
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James Salisbury brought next idea :

Prepare the area to be painted then do not spend too much time repeatedly brushing the same area. If the paint is left still reasonably wet, the brush marks will sort themselves out. Paint the most difficult bits first. If you intend to use two coats, genrally brush the first one on at right angles to what will be your final coat.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

If the top coat isn't orange or something suited to the base coat, then it will grin through. You may need to apply a suitable undercoat and/or obscure the orange with a more suitable colour. If that is the case, try adding a little orange to the undercoat. It works as a blind, homeopathically as it were.

Reply to
Michael McNeil

Get a fine hair brush from a model shop, not a shed. Get the paint on fast and brush it out just enough and no more. If it doesn't cover in one coart, sand and reapply a second.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Yeerrs.

I did a little treatise in a modelling group abount painting...

It bears repaeting, and, if wrong, correcting...so comment away.

(i) Basic surface preparation. When painting anything the first theing to do is to get the surface smooth and mecahnically stable. We do this by ssanding off high spots, filling dents, and sometimes use of things like knotting or stopping were there is a problem such as resmous knots in wood. The purpose of this stage is to get a smooth mechanically stable surface.

(ii) Priming. What priming does is to generate a layer that seals and prtotects the surface, and adheres well to it, and also will adhere to the paint. It may also have serve the function of providing an even better and smoother surface. Its often true that for a class finish several layesr of primer rubbded down between may be used.

(iii) Undercoat. This is there to provide the reflective layer that generates MOST of the colours, especially in gloss paints.

(iv) top coat. This is the tough surface latyer, that is pigmented as much as is possible whilst still allowing the paint to form a prtoetctive film. Gloss paints typically carry rtather less pigments than matt, so what uyou actually get is pigment encased in a lump of plastic film. The plastic film gibeves the gloss, the pigment gives the color, but gloss is not good at color - a matching undercoat isvery important with gloss.

(v) protective lacquer. Often specialised painst like metallics cannot both get the color effect and protect the surface in one go. Here is its common practice to apply a protective lacquer after painting.

This is the classic 5 layer model. Some piants on some surfaces work at tow or more layers...sort of. But top class results use at least 4, if not 5 levels of preparation.

Anyone who wants to hit my other half for suggesting that 'surely painting is easier than using natural wood and staining' may do so at my pleasure. The oh so cheap T & G pine in teh bathroom took about a week plus to do properly, and now of course its shrinking and showing white gaps in the grooves..and of course brush marks. I prefer sparying wherever possible.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Thanks for a nice explanation there.

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

Change your mind quick and use some proper paint. Apply one or two coats of "oil" undercoat, and very lightly rub down with fine paper. Apply a thin gloss coat (such as Dulux "trade"). The trouble with one-coat or non-drip paints is that they contain thickeners which make it hard to apply properly - they're aimed at the splodge-on DIY market, rather than the DIY market of class and refinement like what this is. If you need to cover a large flat surface then use a roller, and lay off with a brush afterwards.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Or you could finish off with light strokes of a paint pad

Reply to
Paper2002AD

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