You're welcome to come an inspect our horses tongues anytime. AAMOF the horse dentist came last week and after rasping their teeth gave them all a clean bill of health. £40/horse for 10 minutes work - not a bad rate IMO.
Julian.
I'm not qualified to inspect horses.. however if you let us know when and where you are creosoting a suitable inspection could be arranged.
Even wood soaked in creosote? ;)
cheers, Pete.
It will be soon, to re-do the fence that I did with Creotrete!
Since this thread started I've been looking at the fence every time I pass by (about 50 times now at a guess) and the difference between the Creotreated and creosoted sections is staggering. The former has almost entirely vanished after about 2 months or so and looks like it has never been touched. I'm really quite angry and have half a mind to take action against Creotreat for selling a product that I consider not fit for purpose. I think I'll try and ring them tomorrow and see what they have to say for themselves.
Julian.
I dont know what that means. I could not have used it once it was used.
B&Q but I dont remember the exact product name. Doesnt matter though, I avoid all the water based stuff now.
NT
OK, when I next get access I'll see if the tin's still there, and give you the details if it is. Maybe then you can tell us more about it.
Meanwhile I've found 50/50 new engine oil and paraffin to work impressively well, keeping even constantly wet softwood alive for years, without the famous problems of creosote.
NT
Fence posts for motorways treated to 8 kgs per cubic metre with CCA (before it was banned) had a design life of 50 years. Evidence to date supports a greater life expectancy. Fence posts rot at the ground interface as a result of a variety of factors Work was done by Ed Baines at Imperial College in the early 1970s that showed nitrogen (from salts) being preferentially deposited in the area just at ground level having wicked up the endgrain buried in the ground and evaporated as the post became aerated. This increase in richness of available nitrogen allowed the devolopment of precursor moulds and stain fungi, then soft rots and eventually various basidomycetes which rotted the wood. Wood that is anerobic (in the mud) will only have the pit membranes and other minor parts of the cell destroyed by bacteria and will remain largely intact - CV the Mary Rose Wood that is open to ventilation and below 18% MC (the post) will not decay.
The key to preserving fence posts is to protect the end grain from wicking and water if possible. The Romans used to char the ends in an attempt to do this (as well as vinegar and other attempts at preservative!) I have found that a good bitumastic paint, a dpm and IF the water table is not high the previously suggested gravel below to be effective but do use concrete at ground level. My hardwood poles of non durable but treated timber have lasted 25 years to date. My CCA treated soft wood (when I had to remove a post for other reasons) showed only very minor surface softening. Chris
On 16 Jul, 09:05, Chris George
Sounds like you'd be just the chap to comment on this, with a view to improving its accuracy:
Engine oil contains detergents, so some of it can wash out which may not be a Good Thing.
I've had good results with Cuprinol Green/copper napthenate BTW.
cheers, Pete.
How good a method is that? Does it keep post in place in a high wind? Tell me more please!
It works with telephone poles. Remember gravel is sharp and pointy not little round pebbles.
You don't need patches to give up.. just duct tape over the mouth and nose.
You mean no cement at all presumably. I guess if it's compacted enough....
Interesting stuff
I maintain paraffin wax is the best way to achieve this as it doesn't form a film which might be compromised as the wood moves, but is about as hydrophobic as you can get. I believe they use it in forestry to prevent premature drying of logs
My hardwood poles of
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