I have a vast area of exterior wood to treat - a built on wooden "shed" about 30 feet by 9 feet, approx surface 300 sq.ft. I guess I'd need to take out a mortgage to treat it with Sadolins!
It suddenly occurred to me that the own brand wood treatments sold in the DIY warehouses must presumably be made by one or other of the reputable manufacturers, and therefore presumably of reasonable quality.
Any thoughts?
Keith
Well it's certainly cheaper, have you thought of using a fence treatment? That way you get a named brand and the job done!
Although entirely wooden and very shed like it is very much attached to the house, and needs smartening up a bit, which is why I was thinking in terms of a standard wood treatment rather than a fence treatment. Although, I have to admit I've never really been sure of the difference - except cost of course!
Keith
In article , Keith Dunbar writes
How about 20quid/2.5l?
Not particularly. You can shop around for a good price. Sikkens also make good products and Jotun is another.
30 square metres is not a huge area at all.There is a price/performance trade off. I have exterior woodwork on the house (window frames and trims) that I require to be stained rather than painted. Sadolin has always been used for these. Quite simply, it lasts well. If I compare with other exterior wood that was in the past treated with unknown shed preservatives there is no comparison at all. I would estimate that Sadolin lasts 3-4 times as long before retreatment is required.
Even on that equation, buying the unknown stuff is a false economy. Once other costs such as labour (which is the same) and incidentals such as scaffolding are taken into account, there is no point in buying other than the best quality coating materials.
The other issue is that most of the shed own brand products are water based and garish colours. a) water based is less effective than solvent based and b) the result looks like a three year old's colouring book. It then fades in patches and looks like total cr@p.
I still prefer real coal-tar creosote for the shed.
(And it smells lovely)!...
I don't believe any of it slows the natural decay of wood (apart possibly from creosote), it just presents a more acceptable appearance. UV is the killer, and only opaque finishes offer any protection against that.
This is so true. Having tried some shed stuff I was given once, I wouldnt use it again if it were free. It just isnt worth it.
Does that include Sadolin's own water based stain? It claims 6 year life: Sadolin Quick Drying Exterior Woodstain
On Jul 13, 6:17 pm, "Keith Dunbar" wrote: .> Although entirely wooden and very shed like it is very much attached to the
Is it planed or rough sawn wood? Is anything on it already or is it grey and weathered? Does it look crap already?
Do ya feel... lucky???
cheers, Pete.
No idea. I have never used it. Generally, their products have a better solids content than others which is supposed to be one of the reasons for longevity. However, I would still only select a solvent based product.
I prefer something that works myself. Its also preferable if its not carcinogenic too.
Do you have any statistics for the number of people who've died as a result of creosoting their sheds/fences?
Do you have a way of identifying which cancer was caused by which carcinogen? Why not adopt the standard smoker technique.. "people die of cancers that aren't caused by smoking therefore smoking doesn't cause cancer"?
Oh dear, here we go again, a completely misinformed raving anti smoking nutter.
There is a proven link between smoking & lung cancer, no doubt. There is no proven link whatsoever between passive smoking and lung cancer. Smokers die of one specific form of lung cancer, alleged passive smokers die from a completely different for of lung cancer which could not possibly be attributed to smoking.
Sorry to disappoint you by bringing scientific facts into your emotional argument.
This links into the "Apex roof" asbestos nonsense also on this group. T'is Nanny State gone rampant. Yes, we do need to be concerned but not go OTT!
Well don't start it then.. this has nothing to do with smoking it was just an example of why you can't prove a cancer was caused by a specific thing.
On Jul 13, 3:13 pm, "Keith Dunbar" wrote:
Dear Keith Re- own brands: All wood preservatives sold in the UK (and EC) are subject to the COPRegulations 1986 and to efficacy testing requirements. Such tests are pretty expensive and as a result many "traditional" preservatives have fallen by the wayside. This has meant that only larger organisations have survived in the production of active ingredients and formulations of these. Thus, all preservatives are and have to be "fit for purpose" and "safe to use as directed" so what you are getting is the result of bulk purchase and sale by a supermarked specialist. What does not seem to have been addressed in the trail below is to ask the following questions: Against what organisms do you wish to treat this wood? THIS is the key question when determining what preservative to use. Also What species of wood? Hard or soft? durable or perisable? permiable or impermiable? All questions which will result in an answer which is needed to decide the preservative to be used. Preservatives are used to protect against the following: Insect attack Mould Precursor soft rot staining fungi Fungal decay such as wet and dry rots UV damage
The active ingredients for these are different. To protect against insect attack you need an insecticide such as permethrin or cypermethrin To protect against fungi you need a fungicide and there are about 10 or so "regular" ones on the market and consist of heavy metal ions normally associated with complex organic molecules or simply boron based active ingredients To protect against UV you need a UV blocker Most decent coatings have some form of water repellant as fungi cannot survive in dry wood and if you keep the wood dry it will not rot, So, if you want to PRESERVE the wood (as oppose to protect) then you would best be advised to put on (in accordance with the instructions) a preservative and there are combination ones (Insecticide / fungicide) on sale. I would unhesitatingly go for an OS (organic solvent) based one and apply it only on a late afternoon of a sunny dry day when the wood is at as high a temp as possible. As it cools down the air within will contract and bring in more of the preservative to the inner parts of the wood. Lateral penetration into the side grain could be as much as a mm or two if the right product is used in the right way in a permeable softwood such as Scots pine. You would get very little penetration to most hardwoods. The application of more than one coat will increase the loading and protective effect. I suspect that what you are really after is a protecitve coating and as far as I am concerned after more than 30 years in the business I would go for Sikkens /Saddolins from AKZO Nobel. It will require re treating every couple of years but this can be done very very easily as no scraping or serious preparation is needed and it can be done with brush or spray. Chris
Creosote works very well. It is that unique combination of a transparent coating with a good natural colour that the manufacturers of substitute products haven't been able to get close to. The smell, however, is something else. Last time I used it you could smell it all down the street for at least 2 days
You say it works but tests show it has little if any benifit. My fence has never been creosoted and my neighbour did his every year for twenty years.. both are still there after 25 years. Both are identical as they are part of the same run of featheredge put up by the builders. I suggest that the creosote has done nothing, just like field tests suggest.
I am very happy since he left and the new neighbour uses a nice water based dye. No smell and it keeps its colour for years.
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