A bit of mature broadleaf woodland has come up for sale near me. Quite
tempted “just because”, I’ve always fancied a bit of woodland to enjoy and
use to keep me in firewood.
Is there a general rule of thumb for acreage to supply firewood for
heating? Also, how well does woodland work as a long term investment?
Interest rates are so poor everywhere I can’t imagine it would do worse
than any other form of savings. Not really into playing the stock market.
A lot of vague questions I know.
We work in yield classes, broadleaves are in the 4-8 M3/annum ball park
up to their age of maximum mean annual increment and then it tails off.
broadleaves are in the 350kg-400kg per m3 of dry solid wood per m3 ball
Of course it's normally only the branches and knotty wood that goes for
firewood, sawmills will still have a demand for oak and beech in good
quality, ash is a bit of a drug on the market atm.
Also, how well does woodland work as a long term investment?
Can be pretty good still at offsetting tax and prices look like they
have done well will other investments excluding housing.
I don't follow your units here.
You have 1 m2 of land, which can grow X m3 of green wood per year.
That translates into Y kg of dry wood, with a calorific value of Z J/kg.
I think you're saying when X=1m3 of wet wood, Y@0kg of dry wood, but
what's the rough productivity of land? And the calorific value of that
10,000m2 in one hectare
which can grow X m3 of green wood per year.
grows 4m3 of oak stems on moderate to poor land
4m3 of oak timber is about 2.2 tonnes of bone dry wood
with a calorific value of Z J/kg.
1 kg of bone dry hardwood contains about 18.6 MJ or 5kWh so each
hectare would yield 11,000kWh
Of course you have to harvest the whole wet weight and when you burn
wood even at an ideal moisture content below 20% by weight you have to
use a bit of that energy to send steam up the chimney.
Possibly, I have a small semi and burn about 4m3, which with a 150W fan
keeps the house warm (aided by a radiator on the central heating that
comes on for 2 hours a day in winter because the 3 port valve on the Y
plan leaks water between DHW and CH). The TRVs on other radiators and
the house thermostat very seldom trigger the central heating.
I was using the lowest yield class figures in my example, softwoods will
produce more and poplar and willow can produce 10 tonnes of dry weight
per ha on good ground.
Mine all comes from trees removed from peoples gardens.
Also a neglected woodland will have a build up of growth over and above
I don't know,it shouldn't be necessary as wood cut, split and stacked in
a covered air place will get below 20% mc from May to September. Winter
felled wood has less moisture than summer felled.
Actually we find that the RH in the house falls to around 40% with the
stove running which is a bit too dry so I do bring in damper logs and
set them a distance from the stove.
I experimented in the run up to Xmas 19 and found a free standing 1kg
green oak log lost 86 grams of water each day initially and was below
20% mc in 15 days.
On Friday, 17 January 2020 12:13:09 UTC, Theo wrote:
Green wood for burning is stacked in a well ventilated store for at least a year, ideally two.
A polytunnel with through ventilation is ideal. Sun gets it good and hot.
I bring wood from the outdoor store and keep it in our conservatory prior to burning. I can get the moisture content down to less than 5% by this means.
You need far too much to pile it by the stove. That would only be a few days worth.
One thing to be wary of if you look on the 'woods for sale' websites is
there are people who own a large wood flogging it off in little pieces, a
bit like parking spaces/storage pods/student housing 'investment'
schemes/scams. They give each piece a cute name, even if they're parts of
an undivided larger tract of woodland.
I would check the price carefully, and also the access. No good if you own
a tiny piece of Sherwood Forest if surrounded by other people's unmaintained
woods and it's a long way from the nearest track.
a peasant family used to be able to live off about 10 acres.
If I were totally wood burning I'd guess at around 2-3 mature trees per
they take areound 20 years to grow, so you would need around 60 of them.
Sounds like an acre and a half = half a hectare
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On Thu, 16 Jan 2020 06:17:06 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
That would be about right with crops and grazing, assuming suitable
climate and good soil. Would work here, climate is not suitable for
I'd have said a one complete mature beech or oak. So lets assume 2.
20 years for a mature oak or beech? No way, make it nearer a hundred.
Even with fast growing softwoods you're looking at 40 years to get a
decent sized tree, not to mention that softwood isn't good firewood.
So you'll need at least 200 trees to sustainably harvest 2 per year.
Of trees planted to replace those harvested not all will reach
maturity, say 50% mortality. 300 trees. A square with 18 trees/side
is 324 trees. Spaced at ten yards gives 180 * 180 = 32400 sq yds about 7 acres or just under 3 hectares.
In fact they didn't. Their governmental system has been characterised
by instability ever since. We're lucky that we've managed to avoid
that. We've also been lucky in that we got rid of the Catholic Church,
then the Puritans, and had that German bloke persuade Queen Vicky to
keep her fingers out of government, and then had monarchs who, for the
most part understand they service and duty to the nation are what they
area bout. And when there was one who didn't get it, he could abdicate
in favour of one who did. About our luck with the current monarch,
nothing need be said.
"Please stop telling us what you feel. Please stop telling us what your
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