OT Washing Powder for thoes with sensitive skin

Hi all, I expect this os OT but this seemed the best place for sencible answers. I have just been advised that becouse of a skind condition that I should use a special washing powder for sensitive skin.

I have bought some from Boots, but have also been told that " Soap Nut Shells" are even better, but could not get any in any of the supermarkets! Has anyone tried them before I buy some online?

Thanks for any help. Mick.

Reply to
Mick.
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Its better not to let the soap powder near you skin. Get a machine that rinses well and preferably one you can add extra rinses. Don't forget the fabric softener can also cause reactions so you may want to avoid them.

Reply to
dennis

In article , Mick. writes

Do you already use a non-bio detergent as that is the first step.

A family member has mild sensitivity to bio detergent and found that a switch to persil non-bio (liquid) was enough.

I'd also suggest changing to liquid stuff dispensed by a ball in the drum, that way there's no risk of powder residue being left in and around the dispensing drawer and contaminating the rinse water.

Don't use fab conditioner, it's evil.

Reply to
fred

In message , Mick. writes

Soap nuts do produce soap (of sorts - saponin which will lather up a bit in water), but friend of mine used some in their washing and I was not that impressed.

Others have recommended non-bio and extra rinses etc.

It does of course depend in part in what you are sensitive to in the powder. We use the basic Ecover washing powder which has less unnecessary added stuff, no bleaches, optical whiteners, perfumes etc. Note this si not the one now sold in Supermarkets - this is an 'integrated ' one as they call it with the above added.

They still sell the basic powder, but you might need to hunt around for it - try a local wholefood shop? or online. We buy 10 kg sacks from a wholesalers (Suma) as part of buying group.

Reply to
chris French

Putting the soap into the drum should help, & cleaning out teh soap drawer.

Ecover washing up liquid is much better with skin than washing powder, but it has no froth prevention, so judge it worng and the froth monster will chase you down the hall. Salt is the traditional way to stop overfrothing if it happens.

NT

Reply to
Tabby

Used Ecover WU liquid as soap/shampoo/laundry liquid for hand-washed clothes when away from home for about 20 years. Currently use Bio-D laundry liquid with no problems and the machine doesn't stink or go black.

Reply to
PeterC

Didn't like to soap nut shells myself. Avoid all major brands of soap powder or liquids, the residue they leave is just nasty !

I've used the Boots stuff, which is good. The pink bag of Fileti (or something like that) Currently using Ecover washing liquid, powder OK to.

Reply to
HappyHunter

Thanks all for your help, I will try the Boots washing powder first, in a ball. Thanks, Mick.

Reply to
Mick.

I've just remembered...

A while ago, we had an ex washing machine repairer on this group; big guy, think he did 'strong man' stuff.

Anyway, he had a daughter who had sensitive skin, and he said the concentrated Costco powder was very good. Kirkland brand, big tubs. As it happens, we'd just started using it too, and it proved to be very good for washing my eczema-prone son's clothes - far better than Persil or whatever.

Reply to
Bob Eager

Lots of good advice already. Now, you've got to prioritise it.

  1. The powder you use in your washing machine. Whatever else, steer well clear of biological washing powders
  2. The quantity of powder you use per wash. Most people use far too much. Use the minimum level necessary to do the job.
  3. All washing machines are NOT equal and you may have to address the problem in various ways.

With an existing washing machine investigate whether it's electronically programmable. Miele machines, for example, are readily programmable to insert an extra rinse and increase the water levels. Not all can be done so easily, so make sure that if you can't force the machine to do it automatically, then you manually set the machine to give an extra rinse. Similarly with water level -- if your machine has a setting for extra water level you may be able to set it either permanently or semi-permanently via the control panel even if the machine can't be electronically programmed.

When buying a new machine, make sure you buy one which can be electronically prgrammed to give those facilities and that you buy a model with a high rating for rinsing efficiency.

It's a real problem that with the "green agenda" there's a lot of pressure on manufacturers to make machines which use less water. All too often that translates into less effective rinsing. Effective rinsing usually uses more water and adds to the cycle time, but that's a small price to pay for avoiding skin irritation.

Reply to
John MacLeod

Hi John, Thank you for your good advice, I will follow it. I was also advised that as well using non biological washing powders, was to put the powder in a ball "with lots of holes in) in with the washing insted of putting powder in the top draw as it somtime sticke there and it then added to rince water. But I cannot as yet find anywhere to get the ball from, I have tried hardware stores, and was told they come free with the powder, but I have looked at packets in a supermarket but could see nothing on it? Mick.

Lots of good advice already. Now, you've got to prioritise it.

  1. The powder you use in your washing machine. Whatever else, steer well clear of biological washing powders

  1. The quantity of powder you use per wash. Most people use far too much. Use the minimum level necessary to do the job.

  2. All washing machines are NOT equal and you may have to address the problem in various ways.

With an existing washing machine investigate whether it's electronically programmable. Miele machines, for example, are readily programmable to insert an extra rinse and increase the water levels. Not all can be done so easily, so make sure that if you can't force the machine to do it automatically, then you manually set the machine to give an extra rinse. Similarly with water level -- if your machine has a setting for extra water level you may be able to set it either permanently or semi-permanently via the control panel even if the machine can't be electronically programmed.

When buying a new machine, make sure you buy one which can be electronically prgrammed to give those facilities and that you buy a model with a high rating for rinsing efficiency.

It's a real problem that with the "green agenda" there's a lot of pressure on manufacturers to make machines which use less water. All too often that translates into less effective rinsing. Effective rinsing usually uses more water and adds to the cycle time, but that's a small price to pay for avoiding skin irritation.

Reply to
Mick.

No idea about the balls, but I can't see that that would make the situation any better -- the powder could stick in them instead!

Provided you don't use excessive amounts of powder there shouldn't be a major problem with powder sticking in the dispenser drawer. I think that problem is largely caused by the use of excessive amounts of powder and cold washes.

Most machine manufacturers recommend an occasional very hot wash to ensure that the machine is thoroughly cleaned.

It's probably worthwhile using the hottest wash that each type of clothing will bear as a method of getting both the clothes and the machine as clean as possible.

Reply to
John MacLeod

The powder manufacturers will usually post you a ball if you phone the customer care number on the box. I guess it's cheaper that way than including a ball in every box.

Reply to
mike

Hi Mike, Thank you, I will do that. Mick.

The powder manufacturers will usually post you a ball if you phone the customer care number on the box. I guess it's cheaper that way than including a ball in every box.

Reply to
Mick.

In message , Mick. writes

For one.

Though I've not seen a ball with lots of holes in, they are usually sold as solid with an open top for dosing with laundry liquid detergent.

You could drill holes in one, I guess, or use one of the nets meant for tablets?

Reply to
chris French

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