They are not common but 4x4 versions of Transits are around . The main customers for them when new seem to be electricity distribution companies who use them on cable maintenance , most I have seen have a towbar to tow trailers of parts, cable drum or a compressor to locations off road such as a damaged cable crossing fields.
G.Harman
Apart from the (rare) lwb versions of the Rangey, Classic Range Rovers and Discovery 1 and 2 are all 100" wheelbase.
I'd reached almost exactly the same conclusion as the OP, except that I tow car trailers not boats. Apart from after-market conversions, the only Classic Range Rover diesel autos are the 94-on soft dash 300tdi models. I had one for many years, and I now wish I'd tackled the heater O-ring job (whole dash out) and the bulkhead and rear crossmember rust, instead of selling it. I now have a 200tdi Defender 110, but, like the OP, the old knee isn't up to its clutch, so it will be for sale as soon as I find a replacement.
Discoveries get less maintainable as they get more recent: 200tdi autos were only made for a year or two, then the 300tdi was OK at first but "gained" a drive by wire injector pump by 1996my. And the 300tdi has the dreaded heater O-ring setup.
I nearly managed to buy a 300tdi this week, but was outbid by someone who presumably believed the owner's description of "no rust". Do lift the boot carpet.
I've now widened my search to include V8s, which brings Range Rovers back into the frame. Best of luck to the OP, who I hope is scouring a different area of the country to me.
Or I could be tempted by a P38. They're cheap and available...
A Disco 1 with no rust...? Seriously...? They left Solihull with rotten boot floors, didn't they?
Well yes, but someone _might_ have replaced the boot floor, and at least patched the sills. But they hadn't. He also forgot to mention that it was stuck in high-ratio and unlocked centre diff.
There will be worse out there, as I'm sure I'll find as my hopeless quest continues until I buy a Paj (or a P38).
Think you may be better with the old V8 and an LPG conversion, rather than diesel. Many of those if not most are autos. And the ZF 4 speed auto is a tough old beast.
Why bother with the LPG conversion? If the annual mileage is low, petrol costs are manageable.
It will obviously depend on mileage covered. But LPG conversions on those vehicles were pretty popular, so may not be difficult to find.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
When I bought the 300tdi, I had looked at about 3 or 4 V8's and at least one was an lpg conversion, but without documentation so the insurers said "No!". The thing I noticed was that all the V8's moved sideways on their suspension at the back when applying power in reverse in low range. Paranoia made me think this might have made hooking up a trailer a bit more interesting.
The 110 I was replacing and the 300tdi didn't do this.
The V8 burbles nicely, but the two I've owned previously always struck me as a bit delicate, and I gather the later ones are prone to serious block and liner problems. My mileage wouldn't justify buying a new lpg kit, but the premium for even cars with certificated sgi systems seems quite low and a few quid up front seems less painful than being faced with a marginal cost of £10 or £12 for a 35 mile trip.
I agree about the ZF 4HP22 box - a wonderful device. I do like the way it settles into torque converter lockup around 50mph. I hate to admit it, but it beats the Crewe-built GM Jerkomatic to a cocked hat for everything except the ZF's readiness to creep forward at idle.
In the grand scheme, yes, but at £300 for petrol for 1000 miles, it shouldn't be difficult to save £100 with lpg - and £100 buys lots of toys and sweeties.
Yes - I can see that.
Was this an older RR with beam axles? Thought they used panhard rods for sideways location? Rather similar to the rear suspension on my SD1 - same designer. And that doesn't do that.
Yes - the 4.6 does seem prone to that. The cure is to fit top hat liners. Many may well have been done. My favourite version is the 3.9 - nice short stroke so revs better. But that's for a car, not 4X4.
So many do seem to have the conversion that it may not attract much of a premium.
You saying the GM box was Crewe built?
But GM boxes were usually super smooth. Just very late in providing more than three gears.
By Rolls-Royce, under licence, for the Silver Wraith, big boot Silver Dawn, Silver Cloud, and Bentley R and S. This was a four-speed fluid flywheel box. Spend long enough adjusting the linkage and you can get most 2-3 changes smooth, but dribbling away very gently downhill can be challenging.
I think the later, torque converter boxes were indeed much smoother.
Back to 4x4s - I've never noticed the effect the OP mentions of a lateral shift. The front axle has a Panhard rod and "hockey-stick" radius arms, but the rear axle is located by a pair of radius arms and an A-frame with a Boge self-levelling strut. All with perished, worn, split, or otherwise knackered bushes, ime.
Ah - right. I was assuming you meant a Range Rover box. Early Range Rovers did have a GM three speed, IIRC.
Other problem with that early GM Hydramatic was the dreadful ratios. The intermediates were all far too low. Had one on an S1 Bentley.
Yes - the TH180 in my SD1 is as good a thee speed as you'll find.
That was my guess too. So probably not that expensive or difficult to fix.
Nivomats are a different matter. ;-)
Water pump seals go and it weeps out of the back of the housing. Like many Disco problems, this is more indicative of the crappy aftermarket Britpart parts supply than anything else. OEM ones last ok.
Electronics: Mechanics know almost nothing about electronics and view all componentry the same way a 15th century smith would view the industrial revoltion. The only stock fault I can think of is oil getting into the injector wiring loom (they're internal to the head) and leeching down the wire to the ECU where it upsets it and starts causing stuttering and poor running.
I'd rather have a Disco than a Jeep any day of the week! I vaguely recall reading that they're not particularly reliable.
In article , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
You can put a doughnut LPG tank in the spare wheel well. Ideally you will live close to an auotgas supply point, or better still get your own tank
1200l LPG tank in the back garden? Yes. Usable for filling a road vehicle? No. Not only hasn't duty been paid, but the gas people would have a pink fit if they saw a take-off when they came to fill it.
No shortage of places to buy road LPG locally, though. I really must convert the Landy - it'd pay for itself by the end of the lane, I think. But given that the spare wheel is ratchet-strapped to the bulkhead...
You are assuming LPG heating tank rather than Autogas duty paid road fuel - essentially commercial grade propane. You would need some form of pump to trasnfer the gas to your vehicle tank. Not worth the hassle as you have aut ogas nearby. If your Series Landy is SWB you have no option but it install the tank insi de. I think it was an 80 litre single hole which just fitted between the wh eel boxes. The spare wheel would have to go on the bonnet (where it belongs IMHO) or alternatively on a spare wheel carier on the back or if a hardtop you could mount on rear door but make sure you have 3 hinges. LWB you can mount tanks underneath - just. DIY kits used to be available. One thing to watch out for is your valve sea ts. You must have an Unleaded head or fit a "flashlube" kit.
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