It's very handy for cooking implements like mixing spoons, ladles etc - means they're easily to hand. Since they're all heatproof anyway there's not much trouble with heat. Although less of an issue with induction than with gas, especially where there's a sealed surface on top.
If you aren't having an oven underneath it's an ideal place to put that kind of thing.
Theo
With pleasure.
the kitchen designer introduced us to everything and even arranged a demonstration at a completed installation. That is when we fell in love with the Bora induction hob. The reason is you don't need a hood. i had been bashing my head on the corner of its predecessor so was glad to see it go into the skip.
The trouble was that she initially assumed that the output would exit through the wall. Except it isn't an outside wall, the outside wall is to the right. Bear in mind sh actually did the drawings for the ujits, layout, cabling and devices.
Well, Bora supply conduit to conduct the vapour beneath the adjacent units.
Except, the final one is a fancy corner job with a rotary insert that goes round and round. It is brilliant.
Except its base sets lower than the plinth height so the trunking could not go beneath. The fitter and plumber spent a day trying to come up with a solution including considering drilling out a trough of concrete to carry the trunking but that would have taken it below the DPC.
The solution is a recirculating fit in which the vapour is fed from the fan to the back of the unit, down to ground level and then forward through the plinth and out through a plinth vent.
I wrote to the fitter (via the designer. He works for her), warning him that a vent would be needed and that I didn't wanted an ugly bit of plastic nailed on from the outside as an afterthought. He is a brilliant engineer but is treated as if he is some kind of magician by his employer.
Back to to the cutlery drawer. There are two deep drawers beneath the hob. If the sides and back of the upper one were cut down, the cutlery drawer would be able to fit. The slides would have to lowered but that is trivial.
As I wrote previously, they are not wood or compressed fibre but folded metal. In other words the metal sides are hollow.
Judging from the replies, no one seems to know of a metal worker that can handle this. :(
This is a link to a subset of the Bora spec sheets.
I am grateful to you for the lesson that kitchen designers should be looked upon much like architects :(
Beyond that I can only wish you well with what seems to me your only practicable recourse: pursue the designer for a solution or compensation
- if necessary through the courts. The (or at least a) major issue with that is of course what you seek from her. On that, have you considered asking Kesseboemer in Germany to quote for a factory "special"?
Our Bosch just slides back in when not in use, so there's nothing to biff your bnce on. Waste air goes up and then above the top of the units to the outside wall. Voila!
No it isnt, they are space wasters.
Our induction hob came from John Lewis and is quite shallow, so no problem with a drawer stack undeneath it. As you say, everything to hand.
Christ on a bicycle. D'ye mean to say that there's a fan mounted at surface level in the middle of your hob? Ideal for spilling stuff down?
And it sounds like a flawed concept: SWMBO points out that apart from the spillage issue, steam and vapours *rise* and you are trying to defeat that. An extractor hood above thus goes with the flow.
Metal drawer sides are quite common. It is likely that the manufacturer can provide different height ones.
If not, it should surely be possible to use a drawer from another manufacturer, with your drawer front mounted to it.
Tim Streater snipped-for-privacy@greenbee.net wrote
But you normally bash your head on it when it when it is in use.
Waste air goes up and then above the top of the units to the outside
If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.
Who will bell the cat?
All we need to make renewable energy work is an infinitely energy dense zero cost battery that can be recharged again and again without dying that wont blow up when you short it.
Meanwhile, in the real world....
...you designer has cocked up.
And you wont let yourself be guided by pragmatics instead of salesmen's dreams.
use an angle grinder, a gas welder, some more scrap metal and then get it all powder coated.
Shouldn't cost more than the rest of the kitchen put together.
It's all about diversity.
I have a clockwork car with square wheels. Round is so boring, conventional and last century. As for Diesel? Faux!
Clockwork is clean and renewable.
So is the uppermost drawer at "normal" drawerline height like
Or does the Bora hob+extractor occupy that position, and you mean there are two drawers below that, like
But that the hob extends so far down into the top drawer space that a cutlery insert does not fit into it?
How tall is the metal drawer? how less tall would a replacement need to be?
The metal drawers I've seen on B&Q seem to be 'Blum Antaro' components, they come in different heights ... think under my oven I have one with shorter height than the 84mm listed here
It doesn't come out far enough for that. I'd have to work quite hard to hit my head on it, even fully open. And then it's only really needed when there's something on the hob that's going to be there for some hours bubbling away. Like any of SWMBO's soups, f'rinstance, which I can smell from all over the garden with a suitable wind and the extractor on.
See, you klods have hoods, which are giant things suitable for installation in a chippie or a chemistry lab. We have an extractor that can be pulled out:
Tim Streater snipped-for-privacy@greenbee.net wrote
I have an exhaust fan on the wall above the hob which doesn?t even need to be pulled out at all, just turned on, which works fine.
Works fine in Norway too.
We have a similar arrangement although not with a Bora hob.
Take a look at the Blum catalogue. They do drawer sides in a range of heights. You may need to replace one drawer with a shallower one but keep the existing front. Then drop the internal drawer down a bit.
Cheaper to replace a drawer than to get one modded by a metal basher.
The thing I really wanted was not have to bend down for the oven - like on an all in one cooker. So my oven is next to the hob - but raised to a sensible height. I made pot storage under the hob - shelves.
Yup.
Looking at the dimensions of the fan unit (BIA) no amount of hacking is going to produce a working drawer. You have not stated who the drawer manufacturer is but I cannot see how any other manufacturer will be a whole different as they will all have the same space to work in. On our Blum cutlery drawer the depth to the base is 70mm and the top of the drawer sits 30mm below the bottom of the work top total space is 100mm. If I have read the dimensions of the unit correctly the drawer back and base will have to be hacked to the point you will affect its integrity.
Looks like the ?designer? did not do the job right and advise you the drawer will not fit. At this stage I think you should be due a refund for the drawer at least and possibly some compensation for being misled.
Richard
That's right. The slides on each side of the cabinet need lowering to handle the inner cutlery drawer. If there was just a conventional "thin" hob, when the top drawer was closed the cutlery drawer would not be able to be seen from the outside. The front of the top drawer would conceal it.
The drawer (about 795mm wide) has an inside side depth of 144mm. The clearance from the bottom of the hob is about 15mm, so 84mm might be OK.
I have passed every bit of info onto the fitter. Hopefully he will be able to make something from it all.
Thanks for the advice.
I didn't believe it until I saw one in action. It is incredible. Invented by a German carpenter in 2006. Check the Bora website. It gives a flavour.
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