OT - How much to remove internal supporting wall.

Definitely not DIY (for me, at least). I'm considering turning our living room and dining room into a big L-shaped room. Open the place up a bit. Does anyone have an idea how much it might cost? The wall is about 10 feet wide.
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On 15/01/2016 17:07, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

can't answer without more details.
Ifr you are taking a wall down ..is it load bearing (critical point)? What is the construction? What make good is required? What is floor material .... Acrows may need to support upstairs during work Any power, water or gas feeds in or on wall?
Lots of variables ...
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rick wrote:

I'm only hoping for a guess to the nearest £1000, if that's possible. I'd like to at least have some idea of the order of magnitude so's I don't look like a complete idiot :-)
It is a load bearing wall. I mentioned that it is supporting in the subject, but forgot to include it in the message. I expect it is breeze block (house is from the 80's). I'm useless at plastering, so I'd be thinking of getting it finished up to there. Floor is conrete with screed. There are mains outlets on both sides. There is a door in it, and metal detector shows something above it, but not extending any further to either side.
Thanks.
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It depends on lots of things. What is the current load? What will you be transferring the load to? Is that strong enough (including its foundations) to take the extra load, or will it require piers and/or underpinning? What other construction will remain to provide diagonal bracing? Do you mind an RSJ below the existing ceiling, or do you want it above the ceiling so the ceiling can run across flat between the two rooms? etc...
A structural surveyor will be able to give you the options in your particular case, and you may need to supply this to the BCO.
If this joins a party wall, then party wall act comes into play too, and you have to involve your neighbours.
--
Andrew Gabriel
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Sorry for the late reply.

Upstairs bathroom with stud walls.

One end will be an external cavity wall, the other end, the rest of the breeze block wall.

Don't know, but I'd have thought so - breeze block wall at either end.

I hadn't thought about diagonal bracing - with the wall removed, I don't think there'll be anything.

I was expecting it to be visible - I can't see how it can be hidden.

It's all detached.
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On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 10:42:48 AM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

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You might still possibly need a party wall agreement if you dig foundations close to theirs even if it's not actually a party wall.
Robert
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RobertL wrote:

They're about two metres away, but I'll bear that in mind.
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On 19/01/2016 10:42, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

It *is* possible to have an RSJ at the same level as the ceiling joists - with the ends of the joists cut to fit between the flanges of the RSJ, and be supported by it. I've got a couple of instances of that in my house - but they're both in situations where the joists change direction - being perpendicular to the RSJ on one side, and parallel to it on the other side. It would be more difficult if the joists were perpendicular on both sides - you'd have to prepare the ends of the joists and then slide the RSJ in through a hole in an outside wall. It's so much better if you *can* create a flat ceiling without having a visible - albeit boxed in - beam across the room.
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Roger
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Roger Mills wrote:

I can imagine that, but next door's house is too close :-)

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Sort of depends. Mine was obviously two rooms - two fireplaces and two doors - so a beam showing where the original wall was doesn't offend. It has the cornice running across it anyway. ;-)
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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I wonder if 2 bolted together *T* sections would be acceptable. Raise BCs eyebrows at the least:-)

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Tim Lamb

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Most would require a structural engineer's calculations when a load bearing wall is removed. Unless a *very* small room, where any UB would likely be sufficient.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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On Tuesday, 19 January 2016 13:20:37 UTC, Roger Mills wrote:

Is it possible to do something like this from the inside, using a timber beam, by trimming the joists back, inserting the new beam and adding lots of joist hangers?
NT
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On 19/01/2016 14:47, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Probably. May need to be a flitch beam, depending on the loading.
Or something like this, maybe: www.jji-joists.co.uk/images/interface/downloads/hangers/sst-steel.pdf
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Roger
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If you live in a street of similar houses ask around as there is sure to be someone who has had the same modifications done. You will also get some idea about any problems and which builders they would recommend.
Alan
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On 16/01/16 12:27, Alan Dawes wrote:

wet finger. £8000
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