(OT?) Create your own transparent paperweight

A guy at work is retiring, and we were thinking about an original leaving present.

We would like to embed an item of his in a transparent plastic or glass paperweight. The item in question should be heat resistant to at least 100c, and is around 10cm x 10cm x 10cm in size.

Google brought nothing of use.

Any idea how to go about it?

Reply to
JoeJoe
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That's bug does it have to be encased, or is that the finished size, which also seesm quite big.

Try a google on "clear casting resin"...

Done this years ago (30 < y > 20) with clear polyester resin. Those have yellowed significantly now. It's fairly easy to do unless your object has a knooks or cranny that can trap an air bubble or bubbles.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Ouch! What did he ever do to you?! ;o)

Reply to
Lino expert

If you want to do it yourself...

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The process goes something like this: -

  1. Make a mould. This is a whole process in itself.
  2. Treat your mould with release agent.
  3. Mix up some clear casting resin.
  4. Get the bubbles out of your resin
  5. Pour some of the resin
  6. Wait for it to go off a bit
  7. place your item to be embedded (which should now stand up on its own and not sink into the resin)
  8. Mix some more resin.
  9. Get the bubbles out of the resin
  10. Pour the rest of your resin
  11. Cover to stop dust settling
  12. Strip the finished item out of the mould
  13. Machine/polish the finished item

Two comments: -

  1. Yes, you can pour in two separate hits and not see the join (provided you don't let dust settle after the first pour).

  1. Your biggest problem will be getting the bubbles out of the mixed resin. This is normally done with a vacuum chamber, which is very expensive.

Your best bet for a fuller flavour is to go to an internet site and get this done for you (you send them the item and agree a size/shape for the mould).

I don't know what you Googled for, but try "bespoke paperweights"

e.g.

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click on "custom paperweights"

HTH

Reply to
Dave Osborne

That's what happens if you use the wrong resin (i.e. "clear" layup resin). The right grade for setting should remain crystal clear for a lifetime, at least.

Try Glassplies, Tiranti, MUTR and anyone supplying school craft lessons (sorry, technology and engineering). The further you get from the "craft shop", the cheaper it gets.

It's an easy process, so practice first. There's a lot to learn about how to design moulds for the best. Mylar (polyester) sheet is handy for sealing the surface in a filled mould - otherwise it remains tacky if it cures in air.

If you want to see through it from all sides, get some Micromesh abrasives for polishing. A _lot_ less work than fine wet & dry, then tripoli.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

It is a mug (as in coffee)

Reply to
JoeJoe

That's the thing! Thanks a lot!

Any idea how to make the item float in the middle of the cube?

Also, my search brings quite a few hitss - any recommendations/ones to avoid?

Reply to
JoeJoe

You cast in several pours, so cast base then add items and add resin.

Resin shrinks slightly and it is exothermic while curing, several pours needed to stop the resin cracking under its own heat or even igniting, its a big item your trying to embed and heat and shrinkage liable to be a danger to it, its also liable to be damn heavy.

Moulds could be polythene or silcone for example, smaller items classic is using ice cube trays.

Lucite embedding which is actually acrylic rather than polyester is what the pros do , tends to cost like a pro job.

Glasplies as already mentioned are very competitive.

Adam

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

That depends on the shape of the mold your using.

Say you want it floating in the middle of a cylindrical mold

with for the sake of argument three inches clear at the top and bottom of the mug -

Put the mug in the middle at the bottom of the cylinder and fill the cylinder till its 3 inches over the top of the mug. ( You'd probably need to pour the resin into the mug first and let it overflow into the mold). Taking care to cover the surface so no dust can settle on it as it sets. Then, when its set, take it out and slide it back in, upside down, so the bottom of the mug is facing upwards and repeat the process. There should be no visible join mark.

Alec Tiranti have been supplying impoverished sculptors, rather than just trendy poseurs, for around 100 years now. Although they're also extra handy if you happen to live in London.

With UV stabiliser and catalyst you're in for about £20.

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michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams

I have used clear cast epoxy ... not sure about stuff being quoted here, just be careful about exothermic reaction ... when you mix clear cast epoxy in a Styrofoam cup, you have to pout it into a tray quickly, or it generates enough heat to melt the cup.

usually not recommended to have it more than 15 mm or so thick in one pour or heat will cause issues ....

Reply to
Rick Hughes

Is that also how they make Malteasers? (seriously)

Reply to
Jules

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Reply to
Owain

Is it desired to preserve it in a particular state of dirtyness or could he not be allowed to take it home and use it?

It would probably fit in one of the cuboid ferrerro rocher boxes if you just wanted a clear plastic box for it.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Never could work out how they did the chocolate bit with no evidence of them having sat while it dried.

Also, imitation malteasers always seem to taste weird.

Reply to
Jules

It is nothing special - just that he was really attached to it whilst at work.

Reply to
JoeJoe

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