Asus notepad. Stopped working doesnt work with battery or mains. Bought new battery it turned on then straight off again, battery could be flat. I opened the mains charger and it looks bad.I connected the mains charger to the mains and used a multimeter on the 19v output and nothing registered although not sure if I made a connection.
Comments please as I may buy a new mains charger.
Make sure you buy a replacement charger that that is powerful enough.
The picture shows a replacement charger which may not have been able to deliver enough current.
Perhaps tiny writing on the (underside of) the Asus might confirm that. Both my HPs have a statement on one of the underneath labels which pretty well match the output of the supplied PSU. My newer HP requires 45w but the older one demands 65w.
Nick
Despite all the warnings, I've never had a new battery delivered flat. I'd be surprised if it was.
Tim
The label on the back has +19v, 2.1A which matches the charger. It also states 40W which isnt on the charger. That charger was replaced 5 years ago.
I know nothing of electronics but it looks to me that the board (charger) is fried, I suppose I am hoping the notebook wasnt damaged. My problem is I only use the notepad twice a year on hols so not wanting to buy a new one for that reason hence hoping to do a cheap `repair` if possible.
I suppose I could get a replacement charger and if it doesnt work then resell back on ebay.
Where are you seeing that OOI? I can't see much past the solder flux and I think 'they all look like that sir'. ;-)
If the battery was previously ok then the PSU failing 'typically' doesn't damage the laptop.
Understood.
If the original (replacement) charger doesn't put out 19V off load and assuming it has a power LED that comes on and no damage / intermittency to the output cable or plug (they often fail as the cable exits the PSU and enters the plug) then the chances are it's just a dead PSU.
Re the new battery, as has been mentioned elsewhere they are normally supplied with 'some' charge in them but I've also had compatibility issues where the laptop doesn't see one battery but will see another.
If I didn't have a compatible PSU to hand, or a universal one with a suitable tip, I'd cut the output lead off the faulty PSU and wire it into my bench PSU. ;-)
If the power LED comes on but you get no 19V out the DC jack, the safest way to check the output cable is to measure for continuity (bleeper is best) between the PCB and laptop plug.
I have salvaged many an otherwise 'faulty' PSU by de-soldering the output cable, cutting the cable short outside the strain relief grommet, digging the old cable out of the grommet and threading the cable back though and re-soldering etc.
I sometimes open the case by cracking it round the seam with a toffee hammer and when re-glued (with a solvent cement) you often wouldn't know it had ever been apart (and I only then use them myself).
Cheers, T i m
+1. What does a multimeter tell you about the psu's output?
NT
Well, on DC volts it tells you that the PSU is capable of putting out the expected voltage, off load. That will at least differentiate between a completely dead PSU or not.
To test that it is doing so on-load you would either have to open up the PSU or (better) laptop to measure the PSU output on-load, or, make an inline 'breakout' adaptor (matching DC male and female plugged back to back) that would allow you tap into the output of the PSU at the laptop end (it still wouldn't test to see if the socket was broken off the laptop motherboard and so not putting the PSU on-load etc).
The last load sensitive unit I had was a DC powered CCTV recorder and I was able to measure the PSU output on the CCTV unit itself and then substitute the supplied PSU for my bench PSU (with the current limited to the marked level on the unit itself) and saw it power up and run ok (at well below the rated current). I then bought a replacement PSU.
Cheers, T i m
I done a continuity from the input socket (240V) to where the 19V leaves the board and it didnt register, and that is the extent of my electronic capabilities. So will order a cheap replacement from ebay with the correct outputs and see how it goes.
I'm glad to hear it
Measure voltage on the output connector first.
NT
That appears to be zero.
that makes it a faulty power supply. None of the other stuff does.
NT
At one point I did type to the OP to *carefully* measure the output of the open PSU with it plugged in and running but now I'm glad I didn't.
However, I can also understand how one might think there would be a direct link between the input and the output, in the same way people ask for a plain 'cable' to connect things with completely different protocols and interface standards.
Cheers, T i m
Update:
New PSU delivered today and notebook now working again.
Thanks all for the replies.
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