First fix electrical only laid in one 6 core for a door switch but forgot about needing a button set for that alternative access.
I assume one 6 way can't do both jobs?
Hard wired preferred as I'm frightened of relying on wi-fi:-)
First fix electrical only laid in one 6 core for a door switch but forgot about needing a button set for that alternative access.
I assume one 6 way can't do both jobs?
Hard wired preferred as I'm frightened of relying on wi-fi:-)
Any form of remote I/O board available for the whatever panel you're using?
"button set" do you mean a remote keypad and/or display unit?
Might get away with it, if nothing wants DC power (a keypad probably will)
2 wires one alarm loop 2 wires one alarm loop 2 wires tamper loop (shared between door switch and "button set"As that door (zone) will be set up as an access door. The alarm won't sound when you open it you'll have the "entry delay" to get to the panel or keypad to enter your code before a full alarm is raised.
I'm curious about this button? Not covered in the alarm instructions?
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
Sorry. Keypad. Terminology issue!
I haven't purchased an alarm, just laying in suitable cable ready for someone else to finalise.
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Ah. I've got a remote key pad by the front door. Not sure if modern ones need fewer circuit than mine - don't think it and a front door switch could be run from a 6 core cable.
The chubb alarms I used to fit in banks only needed four core for everything. These modern ones aren't well designed.
One pair will be power, one the alarm circuit and the last one the anti tamper.
You can wire the alarm circuit through the the anti-tamper switches to protect the boxes while the alarm is set and use the anti-tamper pair for something else at the expense of 24hr anti-tamper. The power you can wire in parallel to feed more sensors if the circuit isn't too long.
Some alarms use "EOL resistors" so a single pair is used for alarm and tamper (and sometimes for fault too).
Star or delta from the panel or a mixture of both?
Now I am really confused:-)
It is currently possible to run a second 6 core to a location suitable for a keypad. When I finish the flooring (suitable icon for prayerful attitude) this will become much less easy.
The keypad is to acknowledge entry code and hold off the alarm. I suppose we could dash through the house to the front door keypad but this will be resisted for those wearing grubby Wellingtons.
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The panel I have allows IIRC as many keypads as you want. But I've only got two here.
Oh, just whack one in then! I thought you were past the point where that was possible.
I'm not short of things to do! The other thing we seem to have forgotten is cabling to the sounder. Luckily the attic space is linked so the gable end wall is accessible internally.
The Texecom keypad that I have allows up to two alarms to be attached to it. The keypad itself needs 4 wires, two of which are for power.
Only my PIRs and fire alarms need 4 wires, two of which are power which can be shared. Door alarms are just two wire.
No anti-tamper circuit - or is it done in some clever way?
We are some way off occupation but I guess no reason not to get an alarm installed professionally. I hope to avoid the annual maintenance contract merrygoround!
Think you might have problems getting a cabled alarm installed to the same standards as decent DIY. Like concealing all the cables. The labour costs would be enormous.
I'm on my second self installed alarm. Both came from TLC. First one had to be changed when the remote keypad - a membrane type - failed and I couldn't repair it or find a new replacment.
Neither has required any 'maintenance' other than replacement of the battery.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
I've tried to anticipate this by laying in cable to likely locations.
Well done. Our current alarm is now 3 years beyond testing due to a falling out with Banham over their interpretation of the maintenance contract. The rarely used rear door key pad is unreliable but the new owners can get that sorted:-)
I rather hope technology will have moved on from the obscure button sequences needed to change modes on a system installed in 1997!
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Yep, I installed the cables at various times when I had floors up, ceilings down, was building stud walls, replacing coving, or installing PVC doors (magnets and reed switches hidden within the doors/frames).
A couple of drops required chasing a slot and re-plastering, the only visible cabling is within the garage and shed.
What does "The Texecom keypad that I have allows up to two alarms to be attached to it" mean?
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