New rad on old system - what to flush with

It wants flushing, of course. X300 or X400?

The rest of the system, including the boiler is decades old.

Might add one of these at the same time - though it seems very cheap...

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Reply to
Ben Blaukopf
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"Of course"? Is the rest of the system really full of sludge and giving problems?

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Rephrase: The instructions for the new radiator want me to flush it. Do I assume this is simply a CYA exercise?

The water I drained from the old radiator was black as coal, though the rest of the system didn't seem too bad.

Ben

Reply to
Ben Blaukopf

My Tandberg TR1010 FM Stereo Receiver needed at least 1 Microvolt at the aerial to overcome the squelch and decode the signal. Otherwise no sound at all.

Reply to
Sysadmin

My Tandberg TR1010 FM Stereo Receiver needed at least 1 Microvolt at the aerial to overcome the squelch and decode the signal. Otherwise no sound at all.

Reply to
Sysadmin

If it's discoloured and the system is working and not sludged up with solids, I would just drain it, and refill adding inhibitor.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Magnetic filters merely collect rust, most of the other gunk will not be affected by it I'd suggest. Its a bit like the lime scale removers made by snake oil companies for hard water areas where they use electrostatic forces to clump the limescale together in the hope it will end up too heavy for tthe water. Not very useful. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff (Sofa

They are useful as a point at which to, say, top up the system with inhibitor, or to partially drain down a system (I just attach a hose and feed it to the kitchen drain). I'd also say that the gunge that gets attracted to the magnet doesn't look especially metallic, so maybe it's cleaning out more than 'just' metal.

The main problems I found (apart from buying the thing) include finding an accessible space to put it, and it does introduce an additional point of potential leaks.

Reply to
RJH

Brian Gaff (Sofa) pretended :

Many of the boiler manufacturers now require them to be fitted, to meet their guarantee conditions. Modern boiler internal water passages are much smaller and more easily blocked than they used to be, hence the need for the filters on the return.

Most of the debris in systems is magnetite, otherwise known as rust from the inside of radiators. Which means it is easily filtered out of the water by a strong magnet and particularly the larger pieces, before they get to the boiler to cause a problem.

My system I maintain myself and has always had inhibitor in it. A couple of years ago I had a new boiler installed along with a filter for the first time, so I fully drained my system in preparation. As expected, nothing but clear water with inhibitor came out.

Boiler + filter fitted and refilled, I cleaned the filter once per month - mostly out of curiosity. The magnatite it had collected each month, gradually declined until it was collecting none at all. Now I only bother once per year, when I do a quick check around the system. Now it produces almost nothing, but...

As said my system is well looked after - by me, so the filter is not so necessary. Most systems will not be as well cared for, even if an heating engineer is employed, so a filter is essential to protect the boiler.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield, Esq.

Your sysadmin seems to be a match to that of FaceBook, etc.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News

On an old system these magnetic collectors will collect a large amount of large particles of rust on a drain down and fill sequence. On my system on such a drain/fill I will clean the filter after a day. Other times I will clean around twice a year. On these bi-annual clean the there will be quite a lot of very fine particles caught by the filter.

Reply to
alan_m

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