New oven installation

Just looking for a sense check here..

Current installation is a gas hob & basic fan oven that runs off a 13A socket.

These are plugged into a twin socket hidden below an adjacent kitchen unit, the twin socket is run off the cooker control switch, one of these:

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So flicking the switch cuts off the oven & the sparker for the hob.

New oven is a 3.5Kw AEG BP3003021M, which obviously needs to be hardwired. So wondering what I need (from local Screwfix) to connect new oven & hob? There's no other 13A socket nearby for the hob so ideally I'd want to connect this in the same place

Not at home ATM to check, but am 99% sure the cooker circuit has a 32A breaker.

Am reasonably competent doing electrics but wanted to double check...

Cheers CD

Reply to
CD
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We used to run 15A loads on 13A plugs. It wont eat 15A continuously.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

No no no no.

Do it properly and replace the 13A socket with a cooker connection unit.

Everything else as described seems fine.

Reply to
Tim Watts

Which is what my research seemed to suggest, cheers. However, replacing the (twin) socket removes the supply for the gas hob sparker.

Is it acceptable practice to wire the oven & a 13A socket for the GAS hob into the CCU. Also the circuit has a 32A breaker at the consumer unit, I should replace this with a 16A one right?

Reply to
CD

I can't see why not. but you could just use one of the cooker switch units with a built in 13A socket as well.

eg

Guess so.

Reply to
Chris French

Given that the oven is rated at 3,5KW then there's no harm in doing that but there's no need to do so unless the original cable is inadequate for 32A. Normally 4mm*2 or 6mm^2 will be adequate. But use the same size cable for connecting the socket. The 32A breaker provides protection for the cable against fault currents and a 3A fuse in the plug protects the socket and flex to the hob.

Reply to
Mike Clarke

The manual from AEG should specify what is needed by way of protection. They might permit 20A which would give you more options - eg allow for something more in the socket than just the sparker.

Reply to
Robin

Unless the manufacturer of the oven says fuse it lower, 32A is OK.

For the gas hob you could add a fused connection unit off the same 32A circuit - this would be legit as it would be a very special but "standard" 32A radial circuit as far as the fuse connection unit was concerned.

How accessible would the fuse be?

But you could drop the breaker to 16A and then you'd be able to use

2.5mm2 cable for the extra bits which might be a practical consideration.
Reply to
Tim Watts

There are numerous versions of the manual online, all mostly the same

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To save you downloading it says this:

Connection via | Min. size Cable/flex | Cable/flex type | Fuse

--------------------------------------------------------------------- Cooker Control | 2,5 mm² | PVC / PVC twin | min: 15 A Circuit | | and earth | max: 20 A

So replace the 32A breaker with a 16A going on the manual?

Easily. Could I just run off a single socket rather than a FCU? Or is the FCU to prevent potentially plugging in a 2Kw fan heater on the same circuit?

I like practical. Is it OK to wire the FCU into one of these along with the oven?

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or replace the current double socket with the switch/socket combo mentioned further up:

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CD

Reply to
CD

Wot, no 15A load on a 13A plug with bare wires stuffed under it for the gas igniter? How times have changed

NT

Reply to
meow2222

How neat do you want this and is this a sunk in existing double socket or one on a plastic patress/backbox?

Reply to
ARW

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