I had some problems with an interior door installation.
The existing frame already had previous hinges.
So I cut out new areas in the new door for new hinges.
When I mounted the door, it would not close because the door extended too far on the right side.
How do I fix that ?
| When I mounted the door, it would not close because the door extended too
far on the right side.
You mean it's too wide? Take a measurement,
mark the necessary cut, take the door down,
clamp on a straight-edge, then use a circular
saw to trim the door. Be sure to add the offset
of the blade to your calculations. (In other words,
if you need to remove 2" from the top and 2.25
inches from the bottom, and the far side of the
blade is 1.5 inches from the saw guide, clamp
the straightedge on at 3.5" and 3.75".)
On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:26:42 PM UTC-5, Mayayana wrote:
re: "because the door extended too far on the right side."
How far is too far?
Depending on how "over-wide" the door is, you may want to
consider trimming a little off of both sides to keep the reveal
Keep in mind that if you trim to much off of the latch side
you may screw up the backset. There is usually some leeway,
but I'm tossing that out so that you are not surprised if
something goes wrong.
On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 7:25:19 PM UTC-5, Andy wrote:
Have you measured both doors accurately and determined that the new
door is actually wider than the previous one? If it really is then
we can be sure that the installation is not a factor in this issue.
I'm not doubting your skills, just making sure you don't treat the
symptom but not cure the disease.
| Finally some one said it. If it is really only about 1/8", I'll bet you
| are right that either there is no bevel or it is reversed.
If there's no bevel it still needs to be trimmed.
If it's reversed then the door may not close properly,
but the fit could still be an issue. It's common in older
houses for doors not to fit. (Even more common at
the top, where the frame can end up being badly
out of square.) There are also other possible problems.
For instance, if the frame wasn't installed well, or if
the underlying framing is done poorly, the door frame
could have easily shifted enough to cause problems.
I have a door like that. Installed by someone unskilled.
Every once in a while I have to take a sledge hammer
to the frame to stop the passage hardware from
rubbing. My guess is that the studs used in framing
the opening were not properly secured.
On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 at 9:53:17 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
We don't know if the door was pre-drilled for the lockset, but...
If the door was already pre-drilled for the lockset, wouldn't a "reversed"
installation be fairly evident?
Andy obviously wouldn't have hinged the lockset edge, so that only leaves
upside down as the way to reverse the bevel. If that was done, the latch
lockset location would be too high.
Am I correct in saying that reversing the bevel on an pre-drilled door
would be really hard to do merely because of the "visual"? In other
words, even if the installer knew nothing about the bevel, other factors
would prevent a reversed installation.
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