I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:
The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.
Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
If someone could explain this it would be very useful.
The Beko is 2.1 kW and so could be plugged into a 13A socket. You
would need to provide the cable and plug.
You do need to provide an *accessible* means of disconnecting it,
though, so plugging it in somewhere behind a unit would not be
Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf ) the total power requirement is
only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only going
to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is what a normal
socket it rated to.
If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable to
connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)
However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven off
completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the cabinet,
so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to current standards -
I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent cupboard is OK or not -
maybe someone qualified can comment?
(Not an electrician)
We recently had a multi fuel free standing cooker installed
professionally, and the switch was put in the adjoining cabinet. AIUI
double ovens and twin cavity cookers require hard wiring with 6mm cable.
Most single ovens are ok on a 13amp plug.
This was a retrofit, so he didn't have much option. Pukka contractor
with all the gas/partP paperwork, so I assume it's all up to standard.
Also got me a new gas meter installed within the hour because something
had corroded and he couldn't test the pressure.
Oh wow, thanks all for your feedback on this.
Based on what you say it seems fine to just put a normal cable into it
and use the existing socket (which is in an adjacent cupboard) we
have. Initially when I looked into it on the net they were talking
about fires starting due to the oven pulling more power than ones that
say ok for 13 amp.
Thanks again for your help. I think I will go for the Beko one.
You'll be fine. Generally speaking, a single oven unit will be capable of
being supplied from a 13A socket, whereas a double electric oven will most
likely need properly wiring into a specific circuit.
Thanks again for all the answers. I have a further question based on
I have just checked my consumer unit and my oven is on the same ring
as downstairs electric (32 amp). Is this normal? I do have a 32amp
fuse separate to the downstairs ring but after testing this only
powers the electric hob. Which means the hob is separate to
downstairs electric but not the oven?
Ideally, anything that is going to present a significant load would be on a
If you haven't had a problem with it tripping out before, then the new one
one unlikely to make it any worse.
Do you have an induction hob by any chance?
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:21:27 +0100, ARWadsworth wrote
Those curly-wurly element rings I remember were about 1KW each weren't they?
So 4KW for that kind of hob then, if they're all on and blazing. If I think
back to my parents old upright white standalone cooker, that had 2 ovens,
four of those rings and a grill.
I _think_ that had a separate circuit, but as I was only 12 when I last saw
it, I can't rightly remember!
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