Nailing weatherboarding ?

I'd have to look at some to check, but I thought the convention was to nail through the thick lower edge of the upper board so that it passes through the thin upper edge of the lower board - so each board is held by 2 nails onto each stud.

I assume it's 4" (100mm) matching. Two nails. Whether you nail wherever possible or only some places is up to you, it depends on what sort of a job you want to make of it. It looks better if you keep the nails roughly lined up.

They tend to do that, like floorboards if you don't nail 'em down tight.

I misread the OP as featheredge board, not T&G - ignore my ramblings.

It's good if you nail through the thick part of weatherboarding so that the nail *just misses* the thin edge of the board pinched under it - if you nail through both, they can split as they weather.

Single nail - so as to allow for expansion and contraction with moisture. Even "shared" nails will give you cracks in the future.

Sometimes in the middle, tends to be at the thick edge in tapered boards.

The convention for secret nailing is to put the first board on with a nail that is going under a trim, then hit the next nail at every baaton at an angle taking iton the shoulder of the bevel fairly near the tongue into the meat of the board and then the grounds.

The problem is sending the pins home without damaging the tongue or marking the face. The toungue and groove holds the timber in place and is supposed to control warp and other movement.

The pins ned to be longish so beware of knots.

For outside use, the timber will be thicker thus more prone to warp, also the weather conditions require a pair of ring nails on each stud. Put a pair in at a thisrd of the width from each edge. Angle them toward each other.

These will rust in a week or so and show up as grey marks turning into red runs as the rain washes it down. Iron of course is a marvellous food for stuff that causes decay and the decay is attractive to fungi and woodlice etc.

You can coat it all with shedpuf and tell yourself it will last a long time but it will look sad in a few months whatever you do.

If you can afford copper coated nails you'd be better off. (I'm not even sure you can get them nowadays.) Either that or brass screws. I have never seen anything else for coating iron such as sheradising or galvanising that is effective on outdoor work.

The problem is that hitting a nail with a hammer, breaks the seal and then the rust starts off. And coated mild steel always seems to weaken it. You are no better off with it than with copper. Apart from the cost that is.

Wood reacts with iron. It reacts with all metals except gold. But it is especially reactive to iron. That is why reclaimed timber is no cheap option. The iron almost always turns into an expanded chemical joint. What the ancients used was green wood dowelling that was treated with mutton fat or somesuch and arsenic.

Sheds would las a lot longer if they were given decent roofing. Some ovehang would be nice for instance. Any building needs the same amount of overhang that a house requires.

The 1'2 inch or so most sheds come with is ridiculous and ensures that all the walling soaks from top to bottom.

If the walls went past the flooring by a few inches that too would help. As it is, most sheds are boxes designed to accomodate insects. Rather ironic really as the term "shed" means exactly what most garden centre boxes are not designed to do.