I'm replacing the tap and plug. The pedestal is very close to the tiled trunking that encloses the pipework. Perhaps why it's not bolted to the floor. Easy for slipping out then, to gain easier access. But the hand basin isn't bolted to the wall either. So I think if I take the pedestal out I'll be removing the lot. Or is there a less deconstructive way?
The basin may be held to the wall by silicone.
If you aren't confident it'll stay there, put a leg made of wood under it to take the weight when the pedestal's removed.
Owain
Encouraged. Thanks.
Bigger job, just for you (and something I plan to do): use wall-mounted basin with 'towel rail' brackets, no pedestal, build an easily removable cupboard around the waste pipe. After a test last winter, I'm going to run the waste pipe out through the wall and have a waterless trap outside. Black push-fit (UV-resistant) with the trap screened by some black down pipe, cut so it's easily removable.
I wouldn't rely on that to hold it!
I'd be fairly confident that it will obey Murphy's Law and hold for just long enough so that it can drop off when it can do the most damage.
I'd be more inclined to put in a wooden support frame in that won't fall over or drop out when it finds itself with the fairly considerable weight of the basin on it. Depends a bit on the shape but most basin designs curve in such a way that will push supports outwards otherwise.
USUALLY, there are a couple of screws tucked up behind the curved under side, in the cavity next to the part which goes against the wall. Are you saying they are missing our have you just not seen then.
They are often difficult to get at, so you could have missed them. If they are there, and secure, they should hold the basin while you work on it provided you are careful.
I've cut the hot and cold pipes away, which are going to be replaced by flexible hoses. In doing so, I've come across a couple of bolts in the wall with big nuts, which are in fact holding the sink to the wall. Each of these are closer to the centre of the sink than the 2 unused holes near the outer part of the sink that I first mistook for an overall lack of proper fixing.
I have a very rusty steel bolt with a brass nut on it which passes through a metal plate into the body of the existing tap and holds the tap firmly to the porcelain. I tried easing the bolt out with Mole grips but there's no room to rotate the grips effectively.
So it's either off to the shop for a long reach socket to take the brass nut off, or the whole sink will need to come off the wall, with my lovely wife getting ready to say "I told you so", in response to my claim that it was going to be a 2 hour job.
that'll be a plastering job, then.
Do you have spares for the tiles?
Owain
ROTFL.
I'm sure you aren't the only one to have that experience under your belt ;-)
No, and they're so LIKED!
There's rather too much under my belt these days but it's reducing fast in the current frenzy.
Don't assume that it's brass. I once fitted a kitchen sink mixer tap that came with brass coloured nuts. 10 years later when I removed the sink with taps attached these "brass" nuts had gone rusty and one was barely hanging on!.
If you are going to do the job "tomorrow" a few drops of oil on the rusty bolt/nut for 12 hours or so may help when you eventually come to undo the nut.
I've often found that sods law comes into play when removing and re-assembling sink wastes. Over the years O rings deteriorate and/or part of the fitting becomes slightly distorted (perhaps being exposed to very hot water) and they drip when old parts are put back together. As they are not too expensive these days I always buy a new trap before tackling this type of job. I'm also a fan of the basin mate item to seal a sink/basin outflow.
Consider putting a smear of grease on the bolts when re-assenbling and possibly consider a plastic nut fitting kit
Looks impressively chunky. I'll endevour to arm myself with one of those before the final onslaught.
This is one of those occasions where its worth having a proper set of basin tap spanners:
It will be a two hour job - but that does not include procurement ;-)
Using another tile that visually works with them can sometimes look ok. Beware of very near but not quite sizes. And colour mismatches - trying to match is hazardous. A more arduous but tidier option is to nick a few tiles here & there, replacing them with some 'feature' tile, then you've got the spares you need. Or make up the gap with a row of mini-tiles in some interesting colour/pattern. Or steal tiles from behind a mirror. Etc etc.
NT
You make it seem like such fun :-)
Spot on, once again John. Thanks.
Have you ever had to get a tile off in one piece when they have been properly stuck down? Sometimes its difficult just removing a damaged tile without doing (minor) damage to the surrounding tiles!
several times. It's one of the jobs I've started but not finished now.
it can be yup. Key thing to do is cut the grout as deep as possible & never put sideways force on the neighbours. In the end, some tiles are stuck like rock, some pop off relatively easily.
NT
Wall paper steamer, or one of those things for 'cleaning 99% of all known germs' from work surfaces.
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