Eh? I have two cars. Both with way more power and torque than the average. Both can be accelerated away from rest as fast as they are capable of on a good surface with no loss of traction.
There are very few production cars which will break traction when starting off - except by being silly with a manual clutch. And I'd love to hear of any which would break traction once the clutch is fully home. On a good surface and in a straight line, obviously.
An odd statement given the vast number of times you have reposted someone else's data about BMWs as a question to me. And point bank refuse to address any points arising from that.
I fear you are being kind to your cars without giving it conscious thought, just because you are competent driver I believe most modern cars can spin the wheels easily, say at 5000 rpm in 1st. You are not using maximum power from when the clutch is engaged.
There is simply no point in revving to maximum then dropping the clutch. Traction from a spinning wheel is less than from one still gripping. So it simply bad driving.
The fastest start will be by controlling clutch slip away from rest carefully so you are delivering the maximum torque the tyres can cope with before loosing traction. But you're not going to be slipping the clutch up to maximum speed in 1st gear.
Breaking traction away from rest by vicious use of the clutch is a true example of the kinetic energy of a rotating mass - since the actual torque/power output of the engine isn't sufficient to do this by itself.
Assuming in first gear grip and gearing is such that traction is maintained at maximum torque, the fastest off the mark is the person who can maximise the rotational kinetic energy and using the associated angular momentum to add to the engine torque.
Making the clutch slip, or wheels spin is very much the same result.
If you think the best acceleration from start is to raise the engine revs, and maintain them at maximum torque, you're wrong, yet again.
Perhaps best stick to your Labour Remoaning themes and leave simple Newtonian Classical Mechanics to those who know.
Some basic questions can be answer by young schoolchildren. Classical mechanics tends to be on a further education or A-level syllabus.
When stupid questions are asked and it is clear the person asking them has no understanding of the subject there is little point in replying with an answer. In any case the answer has already been given here.
You're reading the very opposite of what I wrote. Specifically, let the clutch fully in and accelerate with maximal throttle up to the rev limit in 1st. I think you will spin the wheels.
I asked you ages ago how BHP (an imperial unit) was calculated, and it was very obvious you didn't know.
So much for one who claims to understand basic mechanics. It's rather obvious you don't understand them at all - but merely find things on Google.
These days the definition of a Horsepower is 746W. There was an old definition of horse power that involved just bore size leading to undersquare engines.
The inch is similarly defined, apologies if I gave you the impression I didn't know.
Any link I use is to explain things to you in a simple effective way such that most people would understand. I generally use websites like wikipedia as a reference.
I have used a number of equations and referenced them to wikipedia. Unfortunately they were way beyond you ability to comprehend, and you snipped the bits as you always do to anything that is too difficult for you.
The salesmen got to the engineers on mine.
On a dry road, in a straight line, maximum torque will just about break traction in 1st. The fastest acceleration is to slip the clutch to hold the engine at peak torque, with the tyres making various complaints, until the clutch is fully up. At that point the revs will rise. Let them go to the rev limiter, then drop it into 2nd. You don't need to lift the accelerator; the rev limiter will do it for you. It will then get to
100KPH (62MPH) in 2nd.I've never done it. It's bad for the clutch, the tyres, the engine and the environment.
Andy
Most cars the tyres don't break away, even in first gear, in your case I'm sure you've everything about optimum. As you say not the sort of thing I would want to do every day!
I'd love to hear of any road car that will do this on a good surface in a straight line. Likely none, as it would be extremely dangerous, and the maker would be sued in the US.
I asked about BHP, Fred. I take it you don't know the difference.
It was not a definition of horsepower, Fred. It was a formula used to calculate taxation classes. Nothing more.
IIUC, it's not knowing what it is, but how it's calculated to understanding the various relationships.
Quite. Odd that one who claims such an in depth knowledge of Newton mechanics (or any other fancy name he can find) doesn't seem to get that.
FWIW if you measure any electric motor at 746 watts, if won't be generating 1 HP.
All units of power are work done / time. Is that what you are alluding to?
You might be confusing power in and power out, they are usually very different.
The excuse you need to know engine power in BHP rather than kW in order to solve a simple question is just that, an excuse for why they don't know the answer.
You could just divide the power in kW by 0.746 yourself if you feel it is any help, or is that beyond you too.
Every 2 litre FWD car I've ever driven would do it.
Andy
Once you switch the "traction control" off, at least.
Good point! I'd forgotten everything has traction control nowadays.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.