Mounting horizontal radiator vertically... is it possible?

It would get warm, but I don't think it would work very efficiently. Those things are designed so that the water takes a path through which heats the whole rad. The convector fins then help to heat the air by convection. If you turn one through 90 degrees then the water will have an easy vertical path from one valve to the other, so I suspect a large part of the rad won't get very hot, and the fins won't really work at all.

(You would also have to make sure that the bleeding valve is at the top, not the bottom.)

Cheers!

Martin

Most rads have a connection at each corner, so flow / return can still go in at the bottom and bleed at the top. I agree that it may not be quite so efficient as in the normal orientation but I wouldn't agonise over it.

It won't work very well because the fins will be the wrong orientation for convection to operate. Might even insulate those sides of the panel more than if they weren't there.

Go to a builders/plumbers merchant who will be able to order such sizes for you from the manufacturers, rather than outlets such as the sheds and screwfix which do just a few fixed sizes.

I've used Ultraheat4 range, and the manufacturers will make up sizes they don'e have in stock. Unfortunately Pitacs website is complete crap, but there's part of the Ultraheat leaflet on it here:

If you're anywhere near Bedfordshire, the following plumbers merchant will order you in Ultraheat4/6 radiators for next day if the manufacturer has them in stock (but don't do mail order): Dunstable Plumbing & Heating Merchants Ltd

On the only available bit of wall in our kitchen, we have two small radiators mounted one above the other and connected with chrome plated pipe and fittings.

Steve W

You would need to alter the brackets in some way since they are usually designed to allow the rad to hang on them only in one orientation.

It would almost certainly be better to use the available width to fit a rad with two or even three panels. A rad mounted vertically won't have the output that it would have horizontally.

I'd assumed he was looking at a standard, not a high output. John's right about having to bodge the hangers too, of course. But I still think if looks and output aren't critical that it might be good enough for the job.

Thanks for all the replies.

The rad I was looking at was a double rad as that was the only way to get the needed BTUs. I'd imagined bolting a bar across the existing brackets to create a new hanging bracket.

I looked at sites of major manufacturers like Stelrad and Myson and they don't seem to do narrow tall ones - not to the extent I'd need anyway. Is it likely there are special-order items available through merchants that they just don't mention?

The Ultraheat sounds interesting and I may drop them an email but I'd prefer something taller and off-the-shelf.

What percentage of heat output is actually tied to convector fins? The old school-style rads seemed to pump out plenty without fins.

Just a thought, but consider forced air convectors. Up to 5 times the output from the same size..

Could have an interlock which switched off the fan when the front door is open, just like walk-in fridge/freezers do to avoid blowing too much of the inside air outside.

Couldn't you get two towel rads in the room?

================================== The double panel radiators sold by Wickes (own brand) have a clear 1/2" gap between the fins so that if one of these were to be turned on its side there would still be a vertical air flow path heated by the fins. I'm not suggesting that you use one of these because they have some disadvantages for your purpose (e.g. two bleed valves at opposite ends, no 300mm version etc.) but you might look at other brands to see if they have the same clear air gap between fins. Output would obviously be reduced but possibly not unacceptably so.

I think it's quite likely that most double panel radiators are made up from two singles so you might get lucky.

Cic.

================================== I forgot to mention that you might get over potential water flow problems by using a twin entry valve something like this:

Cic.

You can get what I think my plumbers merchant called a one-and-a-half panel radiator. It's a double panel radiator but made slimmer by not having any fins on one of the panels, which would work better in the wrong orientation. They are the Type HF in the Ultraheat link I posted earlier.

---------------------------------

================================== You're right - pictured here:

I'd do this, if they were 'boxed in' then the output might go up due to a chimney effect. Plus the outside of the boxed in bit could be used for a noticeboard or narrow shelves.

cheers, Pete.

Where is it to be fitted? Kitchen?

Doesn't work.

This is the same idea as a radiator cover.

Most manufacturers and HVAC sources suggest derating the radiator by up to 30% with a radiator cover.

A few possibles:

• forced air rads
• under plinth version of these may be a good option for kitchens
• heated wall - see cant find the link, but it was discussed here a while ago. Idea is to put tubing inside a stud wall so the whole wall reaches 30C or so.
• Standard rads can have their output increased to some extent with a small fan.

NT