Metposts - getting in straight?

[Terry Pinnell]

I'm pretty well decided on using those 'Metpost' things to secure the

4"x4" corner uprights of a pergola in the flower border around my patio. I've never used these before and I'm wondering how easy/difficult it will be to get them in *straight*? Is there some clever technique or tip to achieve this please? Or is it just a matter of trial and error - clobbering it with a large hammer and checking every couple of times? Should I first dig out (and then recompact) the area first to discover any obstacles, roots, etc?

[Andrew Gabriel]

That's what I do.

I use the clamp ones, and you can hammer small wedges in the sides to make the post straight even if the post socket isn't.

I would think that would destroy the integrity of the post support, as you are unlikely to recompact as well as it was before.

[Rob Morley]

If you're going to do that you might as well set the post in concrete.

[Richard]

There are a couple of extras which can make the job easy to. You could borrow or buy a Metpost drift. This is a solid metal drift that fits where the post will eventually go. Drive the metpost into the ground, checking for squareness as you go, till the bracket part is just above ground level. Now fit the post and secure then drive it further till the mounting bracket is just below ground level. The top end of the post should be protected with an end cap or better use a proper post driver which can be hired. Verticals should be checked frequently every few blows to the post. Measure the installed posts and cut the tops off to bring them level with each other.

Richard.

[David Lang]

Terry wrote;

I've had trouble with them in the past. The odd one or two seem to hit something hard and start to go in off square/level - bloody difficult to straighten them up again once they start to twist or lean.

You can then end up with two problems - the socket not being level, which you can cope with if it's not too much by using wedges. If the socket twists off square its a real nuisance.

I much prefer the postfix type concrete.

Dave

[Cicero]

================== I use a heavy metal bar driven in with a sledge hammer to create a 'pilot' hole. I 'wiggle' the bar about to enlarge the hole and then drive the metapost in carefully checking for level and twist. The bar I use is about

3' long and 1.25" diameter - it's very heavy. You might be able to hire one.

Cic.

[Rusty]

You can put an old post in first then hammer the post rather than the metal for the first alignment. A lot easier to keep vert.

rusty

[Richard]

In addition to all the advice given remember that it is at least a two person job. A post driver, a thingy like a drainpipe with handles on each side, is much easier to use than a sledge hammer whilst up a stepladder. Twist can be removed by clamping another post horizontally to the vertical post and using it as a lever to bring it square whilst it is being driven. Another tool to have on hand is a pickaxe. this, with it's point in a recess on the bracket and a suitable fulcrum on the ground can be used to withdraw a metpost if it has all gone wrong.

It all really depends on the ground conditions as to whether post brackets are the best solution. Try just one or two first to see if they are suitable for your circumstances.

Richard.

[Terry Pinnell]

Thanks a lot for all that helpful advice.