What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area painted with a roller. Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?
Probably. Always brush first, roller after.
NT
Or use paint pads. Only need to touch up in corners, then; I do it at the same time.
I always do it that way around, but if covering a different colour still find it difficult not ending up with a lighter or darker strip around the top, or around door frames and skirting boards, switches, sockets etc.
use a decent paint with enough pigment in it
The Natural Philosopher wrote in news:ofem5e$4fp$1 @dont-email.me:
Probably more a result of the stippling effect given by a roller.
I have the same effect. And that is with Johnstone's Trade paint which which most people seem to think is a decent paint with enough pigment. I have concluded (after playing around a bit with oddments of board) it is the result of the different surface textures left by brush and roller. I don't have equipment to check this quantitatively but it would tie in with the effect one sees elsewhere that a smoother surface is more reflective which makes the perceived colour lighter.
I use a little roller of the type sold for going behind radiators - and a metal shield and / or masking tape and make a final pass with a roller to give it the same stipple.
Thanks. I might try that in future. But I've found it good enough so far to roughen the brushed strip with a fine-to-medium grit, feathering into the rollered[1] area.
[1] or rolled? I cannot find in the OED any example of verb "roll" or "roller" used as a verb to mean the application of paint. And I was surprised to see that their earliest example of the use of "paint roller" was as recent as 1935. (Mind you, that's 5 years before Wikipedia states paint rollers were invented!)
Sometimes it is texture rather than colour change, it just looks so.
Any explanation as to why that makes a difference?
If you try it both ways you'll find it really does
NT
Funnily enough, I have been using a modern foam roller for the first time recently. Painting some 1970s wall boards - those awful wood effect boards, with milled grooves to represent planking. They were varnished a general wood colour, but are now white. I used three coats of undercoat before top coating.
Anyway, I had to use a brush to get paint in the grooves, with inevitable overlap, and then tried brush first and roller first, as well as rollering over the brush marks, but the paint either side of the grooves is still discernible. Perhaps not obvious to anyone only seeing the end result, but I can see the difference. Dulux white paint.
It is definitely the texture that makes it look different. Two things I've tried with reasonable success:
Simon.
After many years of using brushes for gloss, faced with all the doors in my hall and landing, I thought I would try little foam rollers. I used the rollers to apply the paint and brushes for edging and final finish. This gave my the usual finish, but speeded application quite a bit.
For emulsion, I have long been a fan of paint pads. Wondering if I could have been wrong I tried one room with a roller. Perhaps I wasn't getting the right paint consistency, but I won't be doing it again - it seemed slower than pads for me.
Chris
In message , Chris J Dixon writes
Yes, I have to admit that I found the rollers much faster.
I have never used pads, but will try them next time.
Many thanks for all the replies. I'm going with the smooth vs stippled reasoning as well. Maybe I should use a crappier brush and get a worse brush finish!
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