As it's not going to be a razorr sharp 90degree corner anyway the only one worth pursuing is no.4.
Decent brush, decent amount of paint, make it ooze out a bead to form the edge of the colour & then drag/pull that along the edge say 6" at a time before recharging brush. Plenty damp cloths (micro cloth things are great) to remove cockups.
If you get enough paint on from the bead, you won't need to do a 2nd coat anywhere near the edge....
Hi All
We had bought paint for a couple of rooms but haven't got around to painting them. The lockdown is currently posing and opportunity to do it... One thing we always struggle with is getting a good clean line between the white ceiling and coloured walls. We have tried the following over the years without much luck
Anyone got any cunning tips for this ?
Thanks
Lee.
angled brush and by hand
you first paint up to 4 to 5mm away from the join which gives a paint reservoir for the second pass where you fill in to the join.
Put coving up tends to even out undulations in the ceiling/wall join and present a nice straight edge to cut into with a brush. The art to cutting in at corners is to hold the brush at roughly 45deg to the wall with the width of the brush more or less parallel to the direction of painting, start a little away from the edge and as you start the stroke push it towards the edge until you have the bristles In the corner complete the stroke without over-reaching.
In days of yore when people often painted the putty fillet a different colour to the rest of the window woodwork, painters would use a brush where the end of the bristles were cut at an angle a guess at 15deg. This allowed easier painting into corners and although these brushes were quite narrow 3/4? I suppose the same could be applied to a wider brush.
Richard
Masking tape comes in a range of "stickyness" for different jobs.
Coving helps, better still that and a picture rail :-)
However, I find it looks best if the wall colour ends a few mm short of the ceiling and is level all round, then the ceiling colour covers the ceiling and the top few mm of the walls - that hides any unevenness of the ceiling height. So paint either in order, but once the wall is done, apply low tack masking tape to the wall with its top edge just shy of the ceiling, and then paint the "corner" between ceiling and wall.
Note that in large rooms, you may find that the ceiling will sag along the run of the joists - perhaps an inch or more across the span - so the wall colour line, will need to roughly follow that sag rather than be truly level (just in case you were thinking of laying out the tap with a laser level!)
Tape and gizzmos don't work IME. Make sure to paint slightly down the wall when you do the ceiling, assuming you do that first. I find the newer-style "pencil" brushes (there's probably a better name for them) work better than the angled cutting-in brushes. Also, when doing the walls have the brush at somewhere near to right angles to the ceiling, rather than nearly parallel - counter-intuitive but I find it gives better control of the line. Better than all of this is to get SWMBO to do it while you get-on with doing some manly DIY ;-)
Cutting in?
We reboarded the walls and ceiling in a room recently, so *did* have a
90 degree edge to deal with.The missus and I both had a do at it, varying results, i'm nowhere near
100% happy with it.My tip is to lower your expectations and appreciate that it will be better than it was before :) (Because when all is said and done, i've never seen a professional job i'm 100% happy with either)
Tricky Dicky presented the following explanation :
Cutting in brush??
decorators caulk will fillet that.
I find a radius there makes it easier
But small brush and patience.
FWLIW I've found masking tape only helps if it is first painted with the "wrong" colour to seal the edge - so if painting the wall, the colour used on the ceiling. When that bleeds through it's the "right" colour for that side of the line. Downsides include that it may take an extra coat to cover the "wrong" colour.
But to be honest these days I just lower my expectations.
And often having a short shelf life before it degrades.
Unfortunately some of the low tack tape allows paint to bleed behind it and especially if the surface that it applied to is not perfectly smooth.
I had a roll of low tack masking tape which I used once and then left on the shelf for 6 months. During this time it morphed into one solid mass.
I find a large angled brush better. It has to be a good quality brush that holds paint well.
This or its brothers:
Edge Trimmer Paint Pad for Ceilings & Trim
Yeah, it's a bit of a nuisance, but the results are good, unless you find that accurately tracking the ceiling leads to an edge that looks off. Do not let the wheels track holes and dips in the ceiling...
Alternatively:
Thomas Prufer
Do you? That never occurred.
It must depend where people's skills lie because I read one tip that was to score into the corner, leaving a small void.
Anyway what i've found after the job i'm mildly embarrassed by is that i've started to forget to keep looking up and obsessing about it!
Use coving and make it less obvious! Brian
And paint the bit above the picture rail, the same colour as the ceiling !.
But she might just get a manly bloke in to do it !
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