Makita LS0714 Mitre saw - is the depth stop any good?

[dwtowner]

Hi all,

I want to buy a compound sliding mitre, and I have narrowed the choice down to the Makita LS0714, or the DeWALT DW777. Both of them have very good reviews, but I am leaning toward the Makita because it has a depth-stop facility. However, this is the one feature of the Makita which doesn't get good reviews, with various people stating that is rubbish, inaccurate, and fiddly to use. To anyone who has one of these saws, what do you think of the depth-stop facility?

Another slight niggle with the Makita is that it is only 1010W, while the DW is 1800W. Given that they are spec'd for the same cutting capacities, I would have expected their input powers to be very similar. Is the Makita under-powered, or the DW over-powered, or is there some other factor here that I'm missing?

thanks,

dan.

[John Rumm]

I have the 12" version of the Makita, which from the photo looks to be similar in design[1]. All in all a first rate saw, but the depth stop is not one of its best features. There is no scale or anything that would allow you to preset particular cut depths (which would vary with blade diameter anyway, so probably not much use anyway). To use it you need to plunge the saw (when stopped obviously) to the required depth and then engage the stop to set the limit at that depth. Much as you would use the traditional sliding bar stop on a router.

Input power is not the same as output power. Motor, bearing, and gearbox design and quality will all have an effect on the mechanical power actually available for cutting. Dewalt are unusual in actually publishing this figure:

am not aware of similar specs published for the Makita. However unless you are reading lots of comments saying the Makita is under powered, chances are however that it is adequate. Generally their range of sliding mitre saws is well respected.

[1] The stop is a hand screw that is wound down such that it hits a ledge in the casting, and prevents any further plunging down of the hinged section of carriage. On the larger saw it itself is on a short hinged arm that allows it to be disengaged without changing the depth setting.

at the diagram for the smaller one:

looks like it lacks this swing out capability but is otherwise similar.

[dwtowner]

John,

Many thanks for the detailed information. The link to the parts-list was helpful too - I always like to look at the product manuals and so on before buying things, but the UK Makita website doesn't publish them - I hadn't thought of getting them from the US site.

Do you find that the depth-stop is reasonably accurate across the whole width of the cut, or do you end up with an inclined cut? I only need this feature for roughing out channels/laps and I'll use my router for the final dimensioning, but the more work I can do accurately with the saw, the easier the finishing stage will be!

thanks,

dan.

[John Rumm]

You can get their manuals and parts lists from a number of parts suppliers including uk ones. Those links were just the first that turned up on a search. The Mak UK site may however restrict them to registered dealers.

Front to back or side to side?

Front to back - no, the nature of the way it works means it will be spot on level front to back.

Side to side; I did have a problem with mine that turned out to be the result of not having the required spring on the screw (I bought my one second hand). Replacing that, and tightening the screw permitting the lateral movement allowed on mine, seemed to solve it. Since the smaller saw does not allow the lateral movement anyway I expect there is even less chance of problems with that.