Hi. I connected up a new halogen lamp to a six-way socket array. A minute or so later there was a phut, then, after a few seconds, the halogen lamp went out. I tried to switch off the mains socket, but it seems to be stuck. So I just pulled out the six-way socket array, and plugged it in somewhere else. It's ok.
(The fuse cupboard looks normal. I don't think anything has tripped.)
So, what could have happened to the frozen switch? How can I fix it?
It wasn't an old crabtree - rounded edges and recessed switches - was it? The switches on the earlier (i.e. early 70s) versions of those are notoriously prone to failing under short circuit conditions.
It's a double wall-socket. The socket holes themselves are embedded in a dark-brown plastic surround, shaped like upside down T's. These plastic mounts are located in a (sort of pretentious) brass plate. The switches seem to be made of gold-painted plastic. I've no idea of the make.
Thus spake Peter Phillips (pfphillips snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk) unto the assembled multitudes:
If the switch has welded together, it's f*cked, so replace the whole switch/socket body. It's easy enough to do, though reading between the lines of your message, it sounds like it would be safer for you to call an electrician. For heaven's sake don't hit the bloody thing with a hammer.
so, then it's probably easier to just replace the socket, than trying to repair it...
If you cant find a replacemnt the same as your ones, then you may be able to move a socket that is normally hidden behind the TV/sofa etc. and put the new, different one there.
Changing the socket it quite easy
IMPORTANT - Make sure the circuit is turned off at your consumer unit (Fuse cupboard) before removing the old one, check the circuit is really off by plugging somthing into the working socket, and make sure it is on before you turn off the circuit in your consumer unit, then make sure it has actually gone off after you have turned the circuit off.
Alternativly, just turn the main switch off in your consumer unit to turn everything off, however, you should still test the socket before anf after, in case someone has been creative with the wiring.
Once you are 100% the circuit if off, then just undo the two screws on the front of the socket - if the socket is still stuck to the wall, just score the joint between the wall and the socket with a sharp kniofe to relese it - if you just pull it, you will probably damage the wall around the socket.
Once the socket if off, it should be connected with up to three sets of wires in each of the three terminals on the back. (Normally it's just two sets (Feed to/from the previous socket in the ring, and then the feed to/from the next socket)
If you look at the new (or old) socket, you will see them marked L N E
The red or brown wires go to L The black or blue wires o to N The green/yellow (or bare wires if the installer didn't bother to put on the sleeving) go to E
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