Lowering a shower rail

Get a bit of chunky aluminium strip (or stainless steel, but aluminium will be much easier to work with|) to bridge the gap between the original fixings and the lowered shower rail.

Conduit box at existing location, drop down in 25mm conduit, conduit box with dome lid and horizontal rail into 25mm dome lid. If you can't get chrome conduit stuff build it and take it to a chromium-plater.

Owain

Depends on how "handy" you are. Personally, I would bite the bullet and redrill and fill. But you could make a pair of fishplates, bits of sheet material at least 10 mm thick, same width as the existing fitting, and about 140 mm long. Round the ends to make it look neat. At the top, drill three holes to take the existing screws. At the bottom, drill a single hole to take the curtain rod. You would probably want to bed it on a bit of silicone or similar to prevent it moving away from the tiles.

Materials: timber or plywood is most readily available and easy to work, but you would need to varnish or paint it effectively. If you happen to have any offcuts of Mermaid board or similar, that would be ideal. Or you could buy sheet Polythene, PVC, Nylon, etc from a specialist plastics supplier. Or a piece of brass or even stainless steel if you have access to such things.

Much more work than drilling and filling, though.

F used his keyboard to write :

I cannot really work out how you have used that particular fitting on a tiled wall, to support a shower head rail. Surely the shower head rail needed to be vertical, and on a wall that fitting will provide an horizontal bar?

Am I misunderstanding the question?

Looks like it. It appears he is talking about the shower rail that the shower curtain runs on, not the vertical one the shower head runs on.

Harry Bloomfield snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote in news:q66khp$tqc$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Curtain rail?

That was certainly my assumption too.

And you were not wrong!

There are too many unknowns in your question to effectively answer it

NT

Use a piece of 3mm or 4mm sheet aluminium. Make it the width of the fittings and the necessary height to give the drop you require. The ends should be exactly the same profile as the footprint of the fittings, so use the fitting as a template for the rounded ends. Drill the holes at the top to take the screws that will go into the wall. Countersink the holes. To hold the fitting use self tappers with heads that fit the countersink in the fitting. Use over-long self tappers then grind off the excess length on the other side so it is flush with the aluminium. The holes should be positioned so that the rounded end of the sheet is exactly flush with the edge of the fitting. Sand the completed aluminium to provide a key. Spray with aluminium primer. Paint matt grey, at least six coats.

Bill

Shower curtain rail? I can see no reason for lowering a curtain rail apart from it being to high for the length of curtain.

You can get telescopic rails with a spring inside. Only works if the shower is in an alcove, ie tiles/wall on three sides.

Yes, that would do too.

Spring-loaded rail?

Thomas Prufer

Leave the original rail up and string, rope or wire or gaffer tape another parallel rail below to hang the curtains on.

Inform management that the issue has been resolved with a workaround. Do not leave promises to make better, ye could say 'monitoring the situation' without much risk, and if the string/wire/tapes breaks just repeat the original fix.

... or "extend" the holes in the curtain upwards with cable ties?

... add extra length to the bottom of the curtain with gaffer tape and old Aldi bags?

Thomas Prufer

I'd countersink the back and maybe use domed nuts on the front, with conical washers if necessary to seat them properly on the flange.

And my experience they fall down shortly after fitting, and especially when pulling on the shower curtain to close/open it.

The problem may be reaching the top of the curtain to pull it along easily, rather than the length of the curtain.