loft insulation and access

I left the boards down and they laid over the top.

Brian

will have to remove the various loose laid floorboards currently used to w= alk around up there. I do not really have time to board if properly.

the plasterboard ceiling below, and moving around in the loft ? The two th= ings seem incompatible ...

The usual solution is to put down counter battens at right angles. I have rigid foam in my loft fro the same reason.

have to remove the various loose laid floorboards currently used to walk around up there. I do not really have time to board if properly.

plasterboard ceiling below, and moving around in the loft ? The two things seem incompatible ...

Lay fibreglass between joists. Overboard then lay more fibreglass.

NT

They'll cross lay it - the first lot is laid inside the joists (although it's taller than the joists normally) and then the second lot is laid at right angles to the first, so that there's no cold spot over the joists.

you'll get a fancy little sign warning you of the fact that the joists are no longer visible.

You can rest some wide boards in line with the upper layer of fibre so that it's across joists, but I wouldn't walk around up there too much, it'll be OK for light storage

He's paying someone £99 to do it. They won't wait around between layers while he boards his loft

Common problem these days.

I have used these;

He can do the flooring at his leisure later. Fibreglass is just laid down, = not fixed.

NT

They look unstable and incredibly dangerous!!

They will probably be fine once there are a lot of them and a sheet over the top - especially if the sheet has lateral restraint.

They are basically the same idea as false flooring (computer rooms) which have loads of little legs.

Last time I did a loft I just ran 4" x 2" across the joists to coincide with t&g chipboard width. 200mm depth of insulation and, with 600mm centres, strong enough for normal storage and walking about. Cheap job and relatively straightforward

Oh. Well I could use a similar method with timber legs to make it just about walkable, if those legs are not up to it. But surely they must be, because its obvious people will try it. I bet there is a disclaimer in the packet ! Lateral restraint would stop if parallellagramming. Simon.

I will have wait and see what the fitters do, then fiddle around afterwards. As folks have said, its only loose laid after all. Probably end up building a "footpath" up there on some type of legs (like building decking). Also some big shelves on the gables (its strong 9" brick). Simon.

I only boarded the central part of the loft where there was reasonable height. The rest I used odd pieces of ply, chip, or whatever at joist height, then laid the 2nd lot of insulation on top of that. Provides something to stand on for occasional access to the eaves, and the insulation can just be rolled back.

=20

=A31 each, and you'd need loads. You could cut down 2x2/2x3/2x4 in about 20= seconds a piece if that, which is 180 an hour. So your preformed legs cost= about =A3180 per hour to replace a little labour. Crazy. And the wood ones= are easy to fix down.

NT

Agreed the legs don't look entirely stable in the narrow direction but:

1. They have a flange that you can easily screw through into the joist to stiffen things up so better than a bit of 2x2. and
2. You're no daftie so you know to butt board ends up against a wall to stiffen things up or add a few straps if they appear a bit unstable.

There are other DIY solutions but you've said you are time poor so an easy fix may be the way to go.