Lighting spur off power

Dunno why you need a 3A fuse? 5A is normal for lighting circuits.

I assume you are are aware of safe zones for cables for the buried bit

I guessed.

Yep. But thanks for the URL.

A three amp fuse is a good idea unless you need to run more than 700 watt's worth of lighting on that circuit. The lower the fuse rating you can get away with, the safer it'll be. :-)

Don't stick a 6 or 10 amp fuse in the FCU just because it's normal practice to fuse domestic lighting circuits with that amperage of fuse. In this case, I suspect even a 1A fuse will prove more than ample for your coats cupboard lighting requirements.

En el artículo , Huge escribió:

^ That.

Bought a house a while ago with fused spurs everywhere. Properly and carefully installed but no labels so had to go prospecting. Still don't know what a couple of them do.

Except that if it's feeding an incandescent bulb there's an increased chance that the brief high current surge when the bulb blows will take down the fuse.

While true, the chances of me installing an incandescent bulb are vanishingly small!

In this case since the time in use will be very short, and all you'll likely need is enough light to identify a coat, I'd consider a battery LED type. I'm constantly amazed just how long the batteries in a LED torch last. I'd expect to get several years of use from the batteries.

I have a similar situation, but all the wiring will be visible on the surface inside the cupboard, which already has a socket facing out of it. Can I run one 2.5 mm2 from the socket to the box with the switch & fuse on it, then 1.5 mm2 from that to the light fitting, & just use the spur box itself as the light switch?

Yes.

I couldn't think of any reason not to, but thanks for the reassurance.