Light switch in bathroom

Hang for 18 months until the 17th Edition Wiring Regulations comes into force. AIUI these should allow conventional light switches (and sockets) in bathrooms, provided all bathroom circuits are RCD protected.

He can have a conventional switch in Z3 anyway.

On 11 Apr 2007 06:20:30 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@gglz.com" mused:

Hmm, I may have to re-read that bit then.

On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 14:00:47 +0100, "Mike Smith" mused:

Regulation 601-08-01 does not preclude the installation of such equipment in zone 3. However, the general requirements of BS 7671 are applicable to locations containing a bath or shower and Regulation 512-06-01 calls for every item of equipment to be of a design appropriate to the situation in which it is to be used, or its mode of installation must take account of the conditions likely to be encountered. A normal wallmounted light switch and similar accessories may not have a degree of Ingress Protection (IP) appropriate for installation in zone 3 and would therefore not satisfy the requirements of BS 7671. The requirements of BS 7671 may be met by: ? installing a wall-mounted light switch with an IP rating suitable for its location, either in zone 3 or outside of zones 0, 1, 2 and 3, or ? using a pull-cord switch complying with BS 3676 with an IP rating suitable for its location. The body of the switch must be installed outside of zones 0,1 and 2 but the pull cord itself is permitted to enter zones 1 or

Basically, you can install a normal switch in zone 3 but apply some common sense to it as well.

A professional would be able to get a pull switch in without requiring access. ;)

Another option may be a touch switch, where the switch operates without any mechanical operation, just from you waving a finger\hand in front of it.

It is and it isn't, depends how you interpret the regs.

You can get a BIG pull switch that wall mounts, or you could surface mount and trunk wires to a standard pull switch..or even build a small bit of false ceiling!

On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 21:48:33 +0100, The Natural Philosopher mused:

As I've said before, sometimes it's better getting someone else to do it so it doesn't look like a DIY disaster. ;)

Or use a rod through the wall from the inside of the bathroom to actuate the switch on the outside.

I think Wadsworth make these for prison cells.

Owain

Well go on then ;-)

Pretty much any of them. You need to apply common sense though. If it is likely to get either drenched or soaked by steam frequently then one with a suitable IP rating would be better. In most bathrooms a normal switch is often OK (and not precluded by the regs in zone 3)

Flat roofs are not usually infinitely thin and hence typically have some void equal to the joist thickness that was used to make them. This is usually enough to hide a cable. Much depends on how much hacking / making good you are prepared to do. (also think laterally - if the room is tiled and you need to chase a cable into the wall, you can often get away with chasing the other side of the wall!)

A semi serious answer to that is that you are slightly less likely to be starkers and dripping wet outside of the bathroom.

It is wet feet and no shoes that is more likely to kill you.

Colin Bignell

A wet floor is more important. Dry floors are quite good insulation, well probably good enough to save your life.

Thanks to all who have replied. I must admit that I assumed that a "normal" light switch should not be installed in a bathroom. Even if this is legit, would it be regarded as best practice?

I'm worried that it might not get passed by a picky BCO (I'm replacing the entire bathroom suite so the work is notifiable).

I'd like to avoid the hassle of chopping thru the ceiling to gain access to fit a pull-cord switch as it would be beyond my competence to re-plaster everything afterwards (trust me on this ;-)

Finally, can anyone advise as to where to obtain an IP rated switch suitable for indoor use, or am I on a fools errand looking for one?

Thanks again

--Mike

Try this:

I saw an advert today for a no volt no battery switch. I will and try to find a link for you.

Personally I would not move the switch. There is nothing wrong with an external switch. Pull cords are ugly (if you did fit one). At what point do you need to get off the toilet or out of the bath to turn the lights on? Even my girlfriend cannot spend long enough in the bath for the sun to set.

Adam

On Thu, 12 Apr 2007 09:54:40 +0100, "Mike Smith" mused:

Legit, yes, best practice, debateable. I wouldn't unless there was a really really god reason to put the switch in the bathroom, anywhere.

If it's in zone 3 then technically it passes so he can be as picky as he wants to be, it still passes, technically.

Why would you need to replaster?

Can't say as I've ever seen an IP rated switch. Your other option may be to use a low voltage retractive switch operating some sort of home automation type switch either in the box the other side of the wall or behind the light fitting.

On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 00:53:22 +0100, Lurch mused:

Obviously meant one that was styled for internal, blended in use. I've fitted many IP switches, lovely waterproof big things.

Found it

Adam