LED wattage

the original reason for calling them "shades" was that they shaded certian places from the light. Sometimes they act as diffusers, too.

And don't forget LED "filament" strings with no PSU - there you should be limited only to the led operation temperature without any problems with silicon or capacitors not liking the heat.

On an aside, the only issue I've had with "filament" LEDs is that different batches can dim at different rates on an LED dimmer (ie full on all looks the same, but right down at the "just glowing" stage, one set can be literally "just" glowing and the other can be quite a bit brighter.

But overall, they look pleasant and the simplicity seems to help - I have had almost no failures compared to lots of failures of PSU based lamps in a similar time frame (couple of years).

But to be fair, this problem seems to abate with larger lamps - my R63's are going strong after 2-3 years with zero failures.

That's a fairly inefficient lamp - or the glowing bit is very efficient and the electronics aren't. I noticed (couple of years ago) that Ikea's LED lamps, even base down, were hot enough to burn within a few seconds. I've some here that get up to about

I see you've resorted to bullsht. Life's too short. Bye.

No, but that's what you started with.

A spotlight is supposed to produce a bright spot. If you don't want one then don't use a spotlight.

But it is true the problem with LED lightbulbs is that they do get very hot at the base as that's where the SMPS are but the heat can be transfered to the actual LEDs which don;t like being hot. The life of the lamps might well be UP TO 15K hours but they are very liklely to fail long before that due to temperature as the 15K hours refers to an LED used within the specs and even then it doesn't mean it will last 15,000 hours.

Not all LED lamps have much in the way of PSUs :)

Basically a bridge and 3 passives.

They canlt easily be dimmed, they are crap, they flicker and don't last anywhere near as long as stated.

That's not been my experience - the filament candles I have dim very well. The only problem (as mentioned a few posts back) is that the cut off point varies between batches (diode forward voltage variances I guess) so you can either get one set cutting out whilst the other is glowing or the other set brighter whilst the first is glowing.

As a development in this sage, I tried to buy three e14 to b22 converters to allow me a better choice of bulbs.

The order is shown as 'awaiting fulfillment', the phone number on the website is invalid, HMRC say the VAT number is now deregistered and TrustPilot reviews are nearly all one star - terrible. Has anyone encountered Easybulb / Gigateq LImited in Manchester?

And yes, I know I should have done this research earlier - caveat emptor.

They can easily be dimmed, and tehy wont flicker any more than a fluorescent does.

The heat comes from the LED, it doesn't get transferred to the LED.

more cobblers

Ah, is the heat mainly from the LEDs rather than the PSU?

They can be dimmed very easily using their own built-in control logic (but not too effectively by using an external triac dimmer) - all that is required is a constant-frequency square wave with a variable mark:space ratio. The problem is that they tend to be clocked at a relatively low speed, so as you decrease the M:S ratio, the flicker on moving objects becomes very noticeable.

I've seen some 7-segment LED displays on cookers which were clocked at main frequency, and that was *horrible* if your eye panned over something moving and you saw multiple copies of the time in your field of view. Likewise for the "red man" on the switch box of a Pelican crossing as you are driving past.

You can tell where the heat comes from by touching the bulb mount.

what built in control logic ? How do they dim rising or falling or just increased resistance ?

Yes I know, but of course others have said there's no flicker.

We have bench PSUs here that do the same but that is because of multiplexing displays and nothing to do with mains frequency.