suggests around 60 lumens/watt and a 450mm 15w = 900 lumens when new and perhaps 40% lower at end of useful life.
The same table indicates around 60 to 80 lumens per watt with the higher figures for the higher wattage longer tubes so 2000l/m may require a 30W tube and 3000l/m a 38W tube.
Noted. Thanks.
I have found most of the slim under cabinet fl tube lamps to be fairly poor in life expectancy - either the tube of the fitting failing within a couple of years.
Brilliant. That's the data I've been wanting.
I haven't checked them all but the first few are 120 degree beams so around 23% will hit the wall behind the worktop, and another 25% will head toward the floor missing the worktop altogether. But I don't know if the spread i s uniform across the 120 deg. Probably not.
Thanks John, top advice as usual. ;)
A random search of 4 brands all give an average life of 5000 hours at which point the light output could be
and is pretty much the same as the RS one I mentioned.
I'll take a look next time I'm in Toolstation.
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It works for me so try
I wondered about this so I googled it. It seems that the VA rating of a regulated power supply (which is probably the same as the power rating) is based on the maximum current the makers declare to be possible without the voltage changing significantly or other bad things happening. So it is the VA you can actually use.
However, the VA rating of a transformer is not so much a specification as an actual measurement. The output current is increased until the output drops by a specified percentage, about 12% to 30% for dfferent types or sizes of transformer. The VA rating is then the *nominal* secondary voltage (not the measured one) times this current. This is a historical industry standard tather than a manufacturer's nominal rating.
Therefore, if you know a transformer is VA rated in this way you want to use it somewhat below that rating in practice so that the output voltage does not drop significantly, not least because the drop is generating heat.
So this is a valid practical engineering suggestion to routinely derate the VA used.
Thanks for encouraging me to look this up - I had suspected something of the sort but it is nice to know.
I'd look very carefully before buying, especially at the 'tape' solutions and cheaper end of the market.
I've looked at various LED lighting for a slightly different application and found the variation between supposed/claimed light levels and what I consider similar to 'equal' output alternatives to be laughable.
In particular, things like 1W claimed to give the same light output as
10W is just misleading. Even the Lumen figures can't be relied on in my view.I'd recommend trying to visit somewhere you can see some lights in use and compare different ones.
Another consideration is colour, or colour temperature. I like 'cold white'- it gives a brighter like in my view, certainly to work/read by. I'd be happy with it everywhere. My wife, while happy in areas where reading/working etc, prefers 'warm white' elsewhere.
yup, that works.
I'll be interested to see how mine fare. Having looked, it's basically a
24V LED tape inside as far as I can see - so in theory, would be repairable, if it comes apart!
The LED ones are IME significantly better - much lower premature failure rate.
My former neighbours had both over and under cabinet lighting in their kitchen. With the slim conventional tube fittings (of which they probably had a ten), after a couple of years they were getting a failure every couple of months. I swapped em all out for new fittings with LEDs a couple of years ago, and no failures since.
there wasn't any lumen info in it. Look up typical lumens/watt and work it out.
:) you were asking a very basic question
NT
As management prefers warm white I got this one instead:
Interestingly, the 570mm long one I bought is 8W rather than the 6.5W of the cool white version, so costs more to run but is cheaper to buy.
Also, it doesn't come with a fitted 13A plug but, as I've got loads of those that have been salvaged over the years, that was no problem (and no additional expense).
I have standard size florries here as under cabinet lighting. Tubes seem to last forever. Most plinths seem to be big enough to hide my size of tube, so no real reason to use smaller? Except that so many of those plug together under cabinet fittings seem to use T4 tubes. A good reason to make up your own.
Although I've got a couple of short T4s as panel lamps elsewhere. They seem to have a pretty decent life too - far better than the tungsten they replaced. But will probably change to LED there if and when they fail.
Late to this thread, but if the tuit hasn't yet arrivied take a look at the LV waterproof stick on strips on eBay:
I've just fitted a couple of meters of RGB and WW strip to the underside of a shelf above my desk. Works very well, though I don't generally use the fancy colour changing abilties just the WW presets at 25/50/75 and 100%. The RGB white is cool white and can be used to control the overall CT. The RG and WW have individual on/off and level controls, the on/off is just that.
Turning corners at shelf ends is a cut and solder job, The sticky isn't wonderful either onto lighter fluid degreased smooth melamine.
Anyone know how well 3M VHB tape stands up to heat and steam from toasters, kettles and the like?
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