LED lighting Residual output

[Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp]

Hi, I recently put a few flat panel LED arrays in a shed and garage. The same units that I used in the house on a few low ceilings. Flat LED panels around 12 to 48W.

The shed units were on even when the switches were off, not too bright, but initially I thought that the manufacturer had used a phosphorescent chemical in the array.

Turning the CU off demonstrated the flaw in this reasoning.

The direct lights are a minor irritation, but the two exterior floodlights are a pain in the neck as they are fed via a switch with a

2 wire timer across it, for a delayed escape.

I believe the capacitive coupling is causing the internal lights to "glow" and this is tolerable, but the external units are obviously being powered via the residual off current of the two wire time switch.

I thought an incandescent 100W light across these to light an additional "black hole" might provide a "sink" for the current, but despite having cut the "off" luminocity down considerably, the Floodlights are still too bright.

I have some 240V relays on order, but does anyone know of a neater, quicker fix?

Currently I have two 50W LED lamps and a 100W incandescent all in parallel, fed by a single pole switch with a two wire timer across the contacts.

The relay will be easy to fit electrically, but will need an additional JB, or similar for mounting, and it will be a pain sticking this on the side of the shed door.

Regards

AB

[ARW]

No chance of getting a neutral to the two wire timer so that you could swap it for one that properly switches off the switched live?

[tabbypurr]

A mains rated capacitor across the LEDs would help. I'd add a little series R with it to avoid damaging switching currents.

Or the relay. The PIR/timer/etc only runs the relay coil then, the LEDs being switched by the contacts.

NT

[Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp]

Thanks, I could use one I suppose, but the two wire wasn't too cheap and I don't really have another application for it.

Best approach is a pattress and blanking cover with the 240V relay inside when it arrives. A blob of hot melt should stop it rattling during earthquakes.

AB

[Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp]

Thanks, I did consider this approach, but the 100W bulb seemed the easiest shunt to deck. I haven't any mains rated capacitors, so I didn't try to work out a value.

As the capacitor, like the relay would need to be ordered, I thought the relay would be a safer bet, although, come to think of it, I may get a mains rated polyester in the switch box.

Thanks, I'll hunt out the calculator!

AB