LED lamp power supply

I have a LED lamp, I suspect the PSU (which is at the plug) has packed in.
Can I just snip it off and use one of the numerous similar rated wall warts I have knocking about or do they need something specific?
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On 12/07/2018 09:19, R D S wrote:

If it says what it supplies, then just use something with the same voltage and at least the same current.
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On 12/07/2018 09:19, R D S wrote:

Depends. It may want a constant voltage or constant current supply. What's the make/model? Failing that, does it have a user-replaceable "bulb" and if so of what sort?
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On Thursday, 12 July 2018 09:19:30 UTC+1, R D S wrote:

LEDs are driven constant current, warts are mostly constant voltage. But it is more complex than that of course. What _exactly_ are the wart's output specs? What voltage does a multimeter say it's giving?
NT
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Bit late if its popped its cloggs. Actually I've noticed some lamps sold as task lights have an Led lamp which has a constant current drive in it and has a nominal input voltage of 5 volts at quite a fair current. I imagine very much it depends on the bulb and where the constant current bit is. Its a little odd to find a wall wart permanently connected if its just a standard one so I'd be a little wary myself. Brian
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On Thursday, 12 July 2018 10:57:18 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:

nope

you imagine correctly for once

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On 12/07/18 10:29, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

There's no power coming out of it.
It's a Lidl uplighter, wart spec OP 24v 1.5a CV SELV
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On 12/07/2018 14:10, R D S wrote:

ISTM that's CV as in "constant voltage" (as opposed to CC as in "constant current").
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On 12/07/2018 14:41, Robin wrote:

I would agree with that.
It's not going to be easy to find another plug in version.
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On 12/07/2018 14:10, R D S wrote:

So you want a regulated 24v @ >1.5A power supply. SELV implies it needs to be isolated which some cheap chinese switchmodes aren't.
http://cpc.farnell.com/stontronics/t6365st/inline-power-supply-24v-1-75a/dp/PW04106?st $v%20psu but it doesn't say selv but its class II.
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wrote:

CV means constant voltage, as opposed to constant current.
The SELV can be ignored when selecting a replacement.
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So if you know the rating of the one that was supplied by implication any other should do the job. as always, voltage, polarity current drain and starting drain are the most important aspects to consider. Brian
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On Thursday, 12 July 2018 10:53:33 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:

nope

nope
NT
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I'd say the answer is maybe. If it uses a standard PS - ie just plain AC or DC - then probably a similar one will be OK, as the LED driver electronics will be inside the fitting. But if it uses a wall wart with the driver built into that, you'd need a similar replacement.
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IMO they are so cheap that I'd try one and see if it works fine.
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