Do you find picking up the warm freshly laid stuff any better?
I don?t like the way the warmth penetrates the thin plastic of those dogs shit bags. Fortunately not having a dog it is something I do infrequently when I look after one occasionally.
While on the subject ,a comment by a German tourist to me Vy are your schit bins red like zee bost pox,I vasted mein bostcards.
GH
Its a great hand warmer on a cold day :-)
Mike
the bags don't biodegrade to any detectable extent after 4 years. So if it's going in the garden, better to use a bit of card & a stick.
NT
Yes slightly, At least it's nearer to body temperature.
LOL
That's why we have apprentices and labourers.
However some people can core drill better than others.
Can they? I'd love them to share their secrets.
What problem are you having with it? Very basic points are to keep the core drill straight & remove dust frequently, but those are fairly obvious.
NT
Take two apprentices. One spends a lot of time in the gym. Can he hell core drill.
The other who has no muscle at all can core drill.
I would suggest that one of them is just a better aim and probably puts less pressure on the drill.
As an occasional core driller I don't claim any expertise but will chip in:-)
Soft blocks need accurate drill holding and regular dust/waste removal. Granite kerb edging (rainwater discharge) needed extreme pressure for a relatively small hole. I decided high pressure led to matrix wear and fresh diamonds.
IME its more technique (and sometimes stamina) rather than significant application of force.
I can do most walls ok, but I guess every now and then you get one that wants to snag all the time. Walls with significant damp often seem worse for this.
Tricks:
Stick a 8mm SDS bit through the wall first to establish position, and save needing to actually drill with the pilot bit. Once you are 1/4" into the wall you can remove the pilot altogether (saves it vibrating loose and being another cause of a snag). Gentle push. On hard masonry; with a slight slow orbital movement of the drill body, so you "walk" the contact point of the edge of the core round the hole. Withdraw briefly every 30 secs or so to clear dust. Don't try and go into the second course without removing the remnants of the first from the core first.
Lastly, don't do as I saw a chap in a multi story car park in Southend once do - crouched on the floor using a 3" core drill into a concrete wall, with his hand loosely on the side handle, applying forward force with the side of his foot, and the handle on the drill poised ready to clomp him in the nuts the first time it snagged!
The noise, the dust, and watching the core spin against the wall and wondering if anything is actually happening.
My worst was putting a 6" diameter hole though a solid concrete wall whilst laying on the top shelf of some industrial racking. ;-(
The hole was then pretty well filled with Cat5e STP cable (which was like wrestling 25m constrictor, up into the roof space). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
I can vouch for this having recently had to drill a 117mm dia. hole through some partially cured concrete, my friend struggled with the drill jamming due to applying too much pressure. My more gentle technique concentrating on ensuring the drill was perpendicular and constantly clearing both the dust and especially the uncured concrete adhering to the outside of the core drill got much further and quicker.
Richard
those are purely problems in the thinking.
NT
It was already a PITA as it was below ground level in a narrow trench cut through 6" of concrete, besides we wanted a neat hole to seal round a 110mm pipe passing through it.
Richard
Round here we have a "core drilling bloke" all the plumbers use, I think it's a hundred quid a hole which is very reasonable, you'd pay more than that in Soho.
And that's for an 18" thick stone wall.
Owain
Ear defenders!
Drill pilot from inside to out, then core from outside back in. That at least keeps the dust outside.
Well if dust is coming out, something ought to be happening!
Behind the concrete was a clay gully which is what the pipe was going into. The gully had been damaged and was a little fragile even after repair, the concrete was additional reinforcement to support it, chiselling was a no-no. Although the core drill struggled through the concrete the final part produced a nice neat hole through the side of the gully without any damage. Replacing the gully which was a combined rodding point and downspout affair would have been a major job just to extract it never mind replacing and making good. The cost of the core drill and the time spent drilling the hole was minor in comparison.
Richard
But it's sooooo bloody slow.
I remember looking at the kit the first time and feeling sorry for the wall.
10 minutes in and a mere half an inch of progress I had new found respect for construction materials.Very satisfying once done though.
A hundred quid a hole in Soho?
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