Laying oak floor - secret nailing

Aug 29, 2004 4 Replies

Hi all,



I fitted our oak living room floor today. Very pleased with the result (not as smooth as laminate, but hey, you can't have everything ;-)



I have one outstanding question. The boards were end-matched T&G, laid onto battens fixed to the subfloor. I hired a 45degree secret nailer for the job. This worked very well, and did a great job of getting the nails in.



For the first two rows of boards, there wasn't enough clearance to the wall to allow me to use the nailer, so I hand nailed at 45 degrees, then punched in.



I then proceeded to lay all the middle rows with no problems. But when I came to doing the last two rows, I found myself in an interesting situation. There wasn't enough room to use the nailer, and there wasn't a great deal of room to hand nail either. I got a few nails in, but made use of a few blobs of nonails as well.



For the last row, there really wasn't enough room to do any nailing. So it was either face nail, face screw or glue. I glued. I thought about using face screws on the edge of the board, to be covered by skirting, but the gap required for fitting the last row meant that the skirting would need to be 25mm deep to hide any nails/screws used.



My question is this - is there a recommended way of handling the last one/two rows of a T&G floor? How did you do it?


TIA


Grunff wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de:

Screw and glue, hide with plug/grommet

You could if you gave it a quick sand over with a floor sander. Just to level out the unevenness. Out of interest was it pre-cut boards and all you did was varnish>?

Already sanded, and it is pretty smooth really, I was just referring to previous comments I made on laminate.

It was all pre-cut, and end matched (T&G on all 4 sides). I haen't applied a finish yet, but I will be oiling, not varnishing.

I face screwed the boards that couldn't be nailed due to clearance, along with the alcoves that would serve as access hatches should emergency access ever be required.

Screws were sunk using one of those trend "snappy" drill/countersinks, and then I plugged the holes using plugs made from spare boards using the matching cutter (being careful to match the plug colour and grain direction). Shaved off the tops carefully with a SHARP chisel, then sanded the floor.

They're barely noticeable (ie you'd really have to look for them).

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