Landrover series 3 wheel nut threads

[George]

Many years ago in 1975 and 1976 I drove on my own, from UK to Abu Dhabi, wh ere I worked for an oil company. I used series 3 Landrovers on both trips a nd, knowing there were a few patches of sand in the last section approachin g the UAE I devised a simple system to help get me out of getting stuck by having manufactured 10 extension wheel studs, so I could change the rear ax el to drive double wheels. They were made in an Abu Dhabi workshop and apa rt from trying them out, when they worked OK and did not foul the bodywork, I never got so stuck that I had to use them.

I gave up on Landrovers a few years ago, as the strength required to operat e the cars, for which I had loads of spares, was beyond my advancing years. I also had a lot of General Motors trucks too and It is possible that the

10 pieces I have still, could conceivably be for a Chevrolet Blazer as I ha d three of those with similar problems of getting stuck in soft sand, and a GMC Jimmy.

I have measured the thread size of these items and they are 9/16th 16 TPI. does anyone know what the thread size for the wheel nuts of the series 3 La ndrovers was and probably still is? This thread is 9/16 UNF.

I am getting rid of a lot of my bits and pieces and to be able to advertise I need to know which vehicle they were made for. Any comments welcome.

Also, on a different subject I have been living in a Mobile Home where I ha ve my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and I bought a water pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works fine except in the showe r and as the pump starts and stops the hot water varies between boiling hot to freezing cold and I use a lot of gas and water dodging in and out of th e water spray. Does anyone know the answer to this as the only thing that impoves the situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickly, which cannot be good for the relay contacts?

Thanks George.

[Bill Wright]

I had to use a pressurised accumulator tank. It solved the problem. It was also necessary to make careful adjustments to the shower mixer tap setting.

Bill

[George]

where I worked for an oil company. I used series 3 Landrovers on both trips and, knowing there were a few patches of sand in the last section approach ing the UAE I devised a simple system to help get me out of getting stuck b y having manufactured 10 extension wheel studs, so I could change the rear axel to drive double wheels. They were made in an Abu Dhabi workshop and a part from trying them out, when they worked OK and did not foul the bodywor k, I never got so stuck that I had to use them.

ate the cars, for which I had loads of spares, was beyond my advancing year s. I also had a lot of General Motors trucks too and It is possible that th e 10 pieces I have still, could conceivably be for a Chevrolet Blazer as I had three of those with similar problems of getting stuck in soft sand, and a GMC Jimmy.

. does anyone know what the thread size for the wheel nuts of the series 3 Landrovers was and probably still is? This thread is 9/16 UNF.

se I need to know which vehicle they were made for. Any comments welcome.

have my workshop and there is a gas heated water heater and I bought a wate r pump that comes on when I open any tap, this works fine except in the sho wer and as the pump starts and stops the hot water varies between boiling h ot to freezing cold and I use a lot of gas and water dodging in and out of the water spray. Does anyone know the answer to this as the only thing tha t impoves the situation is by having the demand relay operating very quickl y, which cannot be good for the relay contacts?

Thanks Bill, The pump came with a tank with a diaphagm but I have lost the instructions to set it up so I pumped it up to 20psi not really knowing wh at it should be set up, - the switches seem to vary the pressure between 10 psi and about 30, that was with no water pressure in the system, what do you think it should be? The water temperature which varies with the pressu re, seems to be all over the place and I have to continually adjust this. Regards George.

[Fredxx]

A solution is to use an accumulator (expansion vessel) and pump, but then to use a pressure reducer to cope with the fluctuations of pressure. You might have to step up the pressure switch and make sure the accumulator can cope.

I would set the accumulator pressure to be just below the expected minimum water pressure, ie when the pump kicks in. 10 to 30psi is a very wide range. I would expect less than a 2:1 range.

[Tim Lamb]

We have an aqualisa shower unit fed by a pump. It took me some time to learn that the shower would only supply hot water if the flow exceeded a minimum level.

[Fredxx]

Some systems use flow to simply turn on a pump, others use a pressure switch with some hysteresis. Yours likely uses the former method and I assumed the OP's pump used the latter method.

Another way if a pressure switch is used is to place a restriction before the pump, so flow is limited and the pressure for the switch to switch off is not reached during a 'normal' shower.

[Tim Lamb]

The pump runs. You just get cold water! Trying to be miserly with low flow settings does not work.

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[bert]

In article , George writes

Ask in alt.fan.landrover Although it's very very quiet in there I'm sure there are lot's of people like me who have it still set in their list of newsgroups to be polled.

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