Kenmore coffee maker (KKCM 12B-UK)

You'd check the cord where it goes through the grommet for damage. A wire in there is likely broken, sometimes you can "feel" some non-linear weirdness when moving the cord around on the item.

Some appliances have poor strain relief on their cords. We typically "pull some cord material inside the machine" and re-compress with the grommet. Then, hope that the internal interconnect method is something which can be bodged.

With the bottom off the machine (and taking care to drain any recesses containing fluids), you can leave the machine unplugged and "ohm" the conductors on the cord, looking for an open.

While kitchen equipment can have failed thermal protection devices (or a failed thermostatic control), usually you would have done a couple pigtail-croppings of the line cord, before a more serious failure would show up. The machine might have "been in your shop more than once", before an actual component replacement is called for.

There has to be at least one thermal-cutout, on the element base, and that detects temperatures over 100C. If the unit boils dry, that thermal-cutout protects the device. If the thermal cutout refuses to close when it cools off, then you might need a replacement for the same current flow level and cutout temperature.

But as for the logic in there, large perks have "heat-perk-warm" for the operating phases, so the element has to achieve three different energy levels for that. And no manufacturer likes to waste money on too much frippery. The Engineer cannot earn a Nobel Piece Prize if the design is too complex or costly.

Paul

OK Paul.

The display still works so supply cable issues unlikely.

Bottom off today. I just wondered if there was a known fault with this particular device.

A search verifies the model number is known, but the PDF user manual is unlikely to include an exploded diagram or a schematic. Actual verifiable info is thin on this one.

I tried with "-AI" and that didn't help. Duckduckgo was of no help.

As a bit of a joke, try page 9 here.

For any "display", the cheapest display you can make is an unintelligent one, with no processor inside. In modern times, embedded processors could be $1 to $5, so there is room in an expensive-enough gadget, for a processor as a gimmick. But as for actually controlling things, the actuators for mains add to product cost, and for a coffee percolation device, you might be looking at a device costing 500, before anyone would do a serious automation design in there. The simplicity of page 9, is just too tempting when you aim to make a profit.

Paul

A You Tube video I stumbled into last night suggests that Bosch washing machines are no longer build to repair. On that basis, I wouldn't fancy my chances with a coffee maker.

I had a Delonghi coffee maker that I liked. The switch stopped working. I spoke to a (former) repairer of Delonghi products. He know what the fault was, investigated parts availability and said a repair was not possible. I asked if the switch could be adjusted/cajoled but he said not.

Scott, I have had the bottom off. Despite their security screw! Nothing protective like fuses I could see. I don't know if I would recognise a Thermo fuse.

One item of interest was what looks to be a simple non return valve in the pipework to the jug warmer base. Possible crudded shut with a bit of limescale.

I got gifted several broken coffee machines. I never succeeded in anything like a permanent fix.

Since I like what the illiterate moderns call an 'Americano' I bought a second hand stainless steel cafetière off Ebay (I was fed up with breaking the glass ones).

Very cheap and has served me well for many years

All the ones i was given 'to see if I could fix them;' were crudded with limescale.

They proved impossible to descale . You can run 'appliance descaler' through them to clear their arteries before they have the final heart attack, but once that has happened they are Norwegian parrot-like in their mortality...

Scott. The thermal fuse is open circuit as you suggested. Simply clipped to the heater element.

Claims to be 2303 T3/33 150 not found by me in an on line search.

Same thing happened to me, but I used it as an excuse to buy the Gaggia Classic I had wanted in the first place. Now _that_ is designed to be easily repairable and easy to modify.

At a guess, that's a fuse for 150degC at 3A (or 3.33A), date code week 3 of

Does 3A sound about right for the power consumption of the device? I think drip coffee makers are lower power than other heating appliances so maybe

- the Amazon listing says 1400W at 120V which can't be right as the fuse would blow instantly if 240V was applied.

Most of the thermal fuses on Amazon seem to be 10A. They also have markings with 'Tf' followed by the temperature - sure that your 'T3/33' isn't a 'Tf

Also, don't forget that you have to crimp or otherwise cold-wire the thermal fuse - soldering won't do!

Theo

Check the resistance of the element, and continuity of the stat.

Leave lemon juice in it, to soak, for an extended period, days, or acetic acid. That will dissolve it.