Jos completed this weekend so far -1, time in A&E 2.5 hours.

Been attempting to fit new bathroom, with father in law (he does some plumbing). Discover a load of the plaster is blown on walls, but that is easy boarded. Decide to hide some pipes that had been routed under the old bath, and put them under the floor. Missus knows boards are up, but still catches the edge of one of the lifted board, slips, twists one ankle, but puts other foot through the lathe and plaster ceiling. Well, we sick of the artex anyway, and at least she missed the light fitting.
Next weeks task, plasterboarding a ceiling. Any tips I should be aware of, never done any plasterboarding at all.
And we still have one leaky solder ring fitting that we can't cure.
--
Carl Robson
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NeedforSwede2 wrote:

Banish the missues from the vicinty, or make sure she pays you rightly for the coming grief.
Plenty of hits in google for "plasterboarding ceilings".

Worrying, how come?
--
Adrian C

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No idea. Going to replace it with a compression fitting instead. Easier going all round
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Carl Robson
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NeedforSwede2 wrote: <snip>

Use plasterboard screws instead of nails, provided of course you have an electric driver.
Find all the joists and mark their positions on each wall, then mark a line with a pencil on the existing ceiling (this is assuming you are plating over something)
Make sure that boards meet on a joist, you can't leave flapping p-board.
Take off the ceiling rose (light fitting) and tape up the cables, then when you get to that part, just cut a hole about an inch where the cables are and feed them through, if you are skimming the ceiling, leave the fitting off and plaster to the cables, trying to skim around ceiling roses is a PITA.
If you miss the joists with any nails or screws, remove them immediately, if you don't, you'll forget and they will show through when plastered.
Use 6X3 plasterboards or 4X3, don't attempt to use 8X4's, and whichever you use, make sure someone is with you when you put them up.
HTH
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com says...

Going with 4x3 9mm, they fit in the car and will be easier to hold up.
Seeing as she stepped through the ceiling, I now have two visible joists to start with and measure centres from. Will mark walls etc, but at least I have two go with as starting refences to measure from..
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Carl Robson
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NeedforSwede2 wrote:

I wouldn't measure the centres of the two you can see and assume that the others are the same, they rarely are, you need to break into the boards / laths to see the joists at each end.
Also you'd be wise to put some spacers along the joists which are showing, otherwise the p/b will have a gap above it in that spot, some strips of p/b will suffice and also make the job easier.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com says...

As the damaged section is fairly small, I've been thinking maybe to patch it in, then use a skim over both the old artex and the new plasterboard.
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Carl Robson
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Sounds like you've got water lying or more likely still dribbling into one of the pipes. When you heat it up steam blows through the solder. Can you actually disconnect the possibly live pipe rather than relying on a stop cock and blow it through with air?
--
*Marriage changes passion - suddenly you're in bed with a relative*

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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says...

It was I think vapour/steam blowing it. We are going to use a compression elbo and a flexi instead of a series of solder elbows and shortpipe lengths.
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Carl Robson
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Hmm. Hope it's accessible afterwards.
I've got a HVLP spay set from Apollo which just happens to have a standard 1/2" bsp thread on the hose. Disconnect the offending pipe at the nearest compression fitting - usually a stop cock in my case - and blow the pipe dry. Only takes a couple of minutes as the air is warm too. Make sure no-one is looking down the other end first, though. ;-)
--
*Also too, never, ever use repetitive redundancies *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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says...

Yup. It is actually above the floor boards, because the pipes run under the landing, and pass into the bathroom which you step down into, where they initially ran over the floor board, just behind the bath panel. They were being dropped below the bathroom floor as quickly as possible, but it turns out, even though we have done it, it wasn't necessary, and we could have fitted round it after all, without disturbing the heating plumbing.
--
Carl Robson
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NeedforSwede2 wrote:

Probably plenty in the archives on this... however a couple of tips.
1) Mark the joist positions carfully so you know where to screw.
2) Make yourself a deadman prop - i.e. a length of 2x1" a couple of inches longer than the floor to ceiling length. Screw a length across the top to make a large "T". You can then lift the board into place and wedge it there with the prop.
3) Get some long enough drywall screws and a suitable shrouded bit for the drill driver - like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?idF278&ts 900
slap the drill on high ish speed and stick em in on appox a 400mm c/c grid.
--
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:

400mm? do you mean between screws?
IMV this may be fine for wallboards, but ceilings will sag if not fixed every 150 - 200mm
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Phil L wrote:

Boards are marked for fixings. Not exactly intended as holy script but serious guides.
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Phil L wrote:

Well your joist spacing will limit the screw frequency in one direction, and there seems little point in going that much denser in the other direction...
Perhaps it depends a bit on if you are using 9 or 12mm board, I usually use 12mm and have never noticed any sag at all in the space of 400mm (i.e 32 screws per 8x4' board).
--
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:

First time I put PB up I just put one screw in the middle of the sheet, and said to the guy I was with 'thats alright, innit.' The look on his face was so funny :)
NT
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snipped-for-privacy@care2.com says...

Thanks guys.
Off work for the rest for the rest of the week after the bank holiday, so will hopefully do it then.
Will update as it goes.
--
Carl Robson
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