Put all my tomato seedlings in the ground yesterday using the
"posthole" method . Used my post hole digger to make the holes , worked
great . So far , they all look pretty good , nobody is layin' on the
ground wailing for a safe place or a coloring book ... Looks like
Tuesday will be my next opportunity to plant seedlings , it got rainy .
Temps are pretty decent though , which is what helped me decide to plant
the 'maters .
still too cold here at night. but the trend is
finally nice enough. tomorrows forecast is for 70F
and sunny. Tuesday rain. all night-time temperatures
are above 34F for the next week for first time this
spring. if i get another two weeks of gradual warming
i may risk planting some peas.
in all of the years of transplanting tomatoes i don't
recall losing many, if any at all. they seem to be
pretty hardy plants as long as it doesn't get too cold.
I watch the forecast closely now . One year I took it for granted the
"last frost date" was gospel . Planted based on that date and all my
tomatoes got frosted . Had to replace about a third of them with store
bought <shudder> seedlings . I did buy some seedlings this year , but my
source is all heirloom and minimal chemicals . On another note , I have
a partial roll of stock fencing that in conjunction with the 3 fence
posts I have left over should make a pretty nice trellis for those
greasy beans . I think this year I'm going to set up something for the
field peas to climb instead of letting them ramble all over the ground .
I still haven't got everything mapped out where what goes , gotta work
on that , make sure I still have room .
We are still rebuilding our raised beds, but almost done. One of them
fell apart, so had to move the dirt in it and build it better this time.
Thus far my husband is growing veggies via hydroponics, and he actually
has about 5 squash fruit on one plant that is growing indoors under
lights and in water. The squash bugs always end up killing our plants
before we get fruit off of it when we plant squash outside, so, maybe
we'll get to actually eat some fresh homegrown squash this year!
On 4/23/2018 8:50 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
But then I'd have to go out and buy something . I see no reason to do
that since I have materials on hand . I also have part of a roll of 6x6
concrete reinforcing wire - bought to build tomato cages - that I plan
on using for field peas or maybe the greasy beans . Helps that I have a
pretty complete machine/welding shop ... makes many projects easy that
otherwise would be basically impossible or extremely difficult .
Bummer; people don't still say that, do they? hmmm. Sadly,
"average" doesn't mean _this year_; sigh.... I've been bit by "March
surprises" more than one year down here in FL, even. When hanging fire
on "early" planting, I generally wait until the overnight low has been
above the target temperature for at least ten days or two weeks, or so
just "because". Hard to do sometimes. Right now, I have some provider
snap beans that were planted beneath blooming mustard greens in late
February but late March freezing temperatures took out a number of
plants. Those sites were re-seeded on March 26. At any rate, most
survived; I'm picking from them daily now and before week's end I expect
them to be sheltering their replacements.
For many years, I provided poles (local bamboo) for the peas and
those spaced as necessary to allow three or four vines per pole. This
year, however, I simply am going to place one of the wire field fencing
structures used by the English peas and cucumbers in the bed with the
peas and see how well the peas accomodate wire. Peas do not attach via
tendrils, in the manner of English peas or grapes, but wrap their stems
helically around support structures. 'Til now, I've always used purely
vertical supports (the bamboo poles) and whether the horizontal elements
of the fence wire affect the plants remains to be seen. Foot: For all I
know the plants may be repelled by metal or, at least, may not attach
themselves to it.
I also have on handbut rarely usetrellis fashioned from the 6"
wire reinforcing fabric to which you refer elsewhere. Aside from being
initially more difficult to bend into the desired shape, the wire breaks
easily with repeated bending, or so it seems to me.
On 4/23/2018 6:29 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I made the mistake of planting field peas next to my tomato cages 2
years ago . They'll climb metal just fine . Tomatoes weren't happy about
their sunlight getting cut off , got way tall and spindly , lousy for
The re-wire is pretty high in carbon , will fatigue and crack/break
faster than say field fencing wire . If I use that stuff I'll cut it
into panels about 30" wide and bend the ends of the wires into loops to
hinge them together . That will let me zigzag the panels to make them
self-supporting . Probably drive a post about the middle anyway just for
I only have one trellis made from re-wire, of which we have a fair
amount left over from construction projects. Been sitting in the back
yard for at least thirty. One might say we basically don't use it for
At any rate, all of the materials are salvage, much of the fencing
obtained with posts attached. I roll the fence fabric to the length
equal to the desired height of the trellis and cut off what becomes
essentially a panel which, when rotated so that the normally horizontal
wires ("lines") are vertical and the wrapped normally vertical wires
("stays") are horizontal and allow easy rotation at 6" intervals. The
sections, especially when zigged and zagged across a bed, are
self-supporting. I locate the bottoms with tent pegs and reave
arbitrary lengths of ¾-inch thin-wall PVC pipe through the fence fabric
(at whatever intervals look "right"), sinking them as deeply as possible
into the Earth in order to provide some resistance to wind. The
sections roll or fold to reduce storage space needed.
Often, I simply overlap the panels, securing them to each other
with PVC rove through the fabric but in past years have fastened them
together with SS wire or with wire tiesthose yellow jobbies from
If the horizontal lines are cut midway between the wrapped vertical
stays, it is easy enough to fashion the cut-off ends into hooks and
loops so that the pieces may serve a variety of other purposes.
we started talking yesterday about what we want to
plant where. i never really know exactly what will
happen because what we plan on getting and what we
end up with can often change.
finally going to see some 70s this coming week.
I planted most of the center section yesterday . Four rows about 2 feet
apart and 40 feet long , one is half white greasy beans and half red
rippers , a third of the other three are given over to vine stuff , one
was finished out with all the peppers and two have 2/3 left for later
stuff . Okra for instance won't germ until it warms up more , and I'm
not sure what else I'll plant .
i sure hope the beans work out well for you down there. :)
do you measure soil temperatures at all?
i do, in that i stick my finger in the dirt once
in a while to see how cold it is. :)
i have nine new varieties to trial this season including
a single bean and am pretty nervous about planting it since
it will be the only chance i get at this one this season.
i have some wire mesh to go around it to protect it from
groundhogs/chipmunks/rabbits even if it is going to be inside
the fenced area there is always a chance of a critter finding
a way in. i'd like to be able to get it to a few feet tall
and the wire mesh i have will do that for me.
we drove up north yesterday to pick up some stuff and
there is still snow on the ground and some of the lakes
are still frozen over.
when working on my project out back the other day the
hole still had some snow at the bottom from the storm
we had last week.
i'm not sure what i'm up to today out there, i have a
pile of old wooden pallets to bust apart and pull out the
nails (don't like finding those the hard way later on).
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