Ah, you see, I don't. I wear a jersey. I grew up in houses without CH. I am a hardy soul.
The temperature in my hall dropped to 10 deg during the coldest nights. But I'm only in the hall for a matter of seconds while I walk to the room I occupy.
Is there such a thing?
How would the remote stat work anyway? How would I connect it to the existing CH system? (I think this is all rather "blue sky" thinking on your part, actually.)
I cannot close all the doors and just sit in one room as I have two cats. Therefore I need to have some heat in the hall and landing so that the room I am in is not blasted by cold air from them. And when I am work the heating is off. The cats have fur and not my central heating to keep them warm.
See above re. my cats. And at night my heating is off unless the frost stat kicks in.
Of course. See below for a few examples
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>By all means use the electric fan for the instantaneous heating when you
It is not at all "blue sky" thinking. You would connect it to your existing system by following the instructions in the manual or by asking on this newsgroup (I have installed hundreds of them) if you need a little help.
You would then control your CH via the wireless room stat. No need to run down to the annex to turn anything on or off.
I appreciate that it is not instantaneous heat from the CH but if you know what time you are going to use your computer room you can set the timer to come on 20 minutes before you go in and leave all the other TRVs in the house on the frost setting. You can also turn the heating off 20 minutes before you leave the room as the heat stored in the radiator will keep the room warm unlike an electric fan.
It could be heated by turning the radiator on 20 minutes before you used it. You are spending 8 hours a day in there so you should have a good idea of when you need the heating to turn on. And use the fan heater if you go in early and and need the quick heat.
Heating the HW also heats up pipework that is "wasted" but you accept that it is cheaper to use oil than electricty for that purpose. It is probably the same pipework that your CH uses for the most part (ie the bit between the boiler and any control valves) that is heated and wasted.
I believe that with a good timed programmer and the use of your TRVs that you could save more money by using oil for your heating than by using electricity.
Not anymore.. you used to be able to play the Euromillions but now you have to pay extra to be put in the millionaire draw which is even higher odds than the Euromillions just so they can pay for the olympics.
I just stopped playing as I don't want the olympics and I really do not want to pay for professional athletes.
But as I've said before, my timeswitch only provides 3 on/offs per day, so I cannot "dose" the CH for one particular room very precisely. With a fan heater, I can.
As I am writing this I have just come into the room, well, about 5 minutes ago, and switched the fan heater on. Now I've just switched it off as the room is already now comfortably warm. Try that with CH!
The thing is, I'd have to suffer being extremely cold for some days whilst making the comparison, since it takes far longer for the benefit to be felt with the CH than with the fan heater.
Yes. But they don't prohibit me from driving or operating machinery, so how does that impact on the question I asked:
"Oh, and when I'm not using the room I normally use, e.g. I've gone to the shops or the library, then the room is still being heated? Have I got that right? Are you recommending I do that? Heat an unoccupied room for several hours?"
I have an answer, it appears you don't have a clue.
If you have TRVs they have a frost stat setting. If you're that anal that you want to micro-manage heating then use the TRVs to shut off the heat in unused rooms (but to maintain frost protection). Set the time clock to cope with your most likely hours of use. When you know that you are leaving the one room that you wish to be in turn off the TRV in that room.
You seem to think that a heating bill of £100 per room is some sort of significant saving. I've calculated my winter heating bill as £40 per room, using oil fired CH. That ratio fits about correctly given the inflated price per kWH that you are paying to heat your home using electricity.
You're already using your oil fired boiler to provide DHW, so I suspect that your "saving" is largely an illusion. The fact that you appear to have a problem operating a mechnical control appears to be entirely your problem.
And on a very cold day when you are going to spend 8 hours in that room why not use the CH for the remaining seven and a half hours after the electric fan has taken the chill off the room?
Here; a province in eastern Canada, with a population of approx. a half million persons, almost all (about 95%) of our electrcity is generated by hydro. With reasonable insulation levels, very tightly sealed modern homes having heat recovery air exchangers etc, is completely competitive with other fuels. Very few new homes now use other than electricity for heating and it would be true that virtually
100% of new construction is electric. There are no supplies of piped in gas; propane is used for BarBEQUes and/or delivered to 100 or 200 pound tanks for say a gas fireplace. The occasional restaurant use propane for cooking stoves.
Electricity is without the complications/hazards of gas lines, chimneys, combustion chambers, fuel tanks and the need for electricity anyway to operate relays, pumps, ignition systems and blowers etc. Electric heating is usually installed by the electricians at same that they wire the house.
Our electrcity is generated several hundred miles away; a situation similar to say using Scottish electrcity in Bristol?
Here there are no cheap rates, all domestic electrcity is rated the same no matter when consumed. Taking an average domestic electrcity bill (monthly billing) and dividing by the number of kilowatts used it average to just over 10 cents per k.watt/hr (Unit). This takes into account a monthly per account charge of about $16 (About ten quid even if no electricity is used) and an overall sales-tax of, now, 13%.
Reliability of service is excellent, even with heavy icing and snow storms. The general use of aerial lines and connections to individual homes also allows very fast restoration. Imagine trying to dig up a street with below freezing temps and traffic! Billing methods are operated very fairly and speedily and phone access to power co. service-reps. or maintenance depts. is good. Rates are regulated by a provincial government Public Utilities Board.
Personal electric baseboard maintenance cost for this all-electric house during the last 40 years has been less than $100; two thermostats and one circuit breaker. None of the approx. dozen baseboard heaters, ranging from 500 watt (bathroom) to 3000 watt (two
1500s end to end in the biggest room) have gone open or given other trouble. We do use a small fan in the family room which is open to the kitchen and also to the front hall/passage way to bedroom (all on one floor bungalow) to help circulate the heat.
Allowing for other costs versus the low front end cost of an electric heating installation (electrcity being needed anyway for other household work) compared to the first costs and other trades need for other fuels it would appear that, here, that basic electric heating would be/is competitive up to somewhere around 1.5 times the cost of the fuel.
Air and occasionally ground heat pumps are appearing in some newer houses. First costs of a minimum additional $15,000 to $20,000 are mentioned for an average 3 bedroom two storey house of around 2000 to
2500 sq. feet. They seem to work OK? Down to around minus 10 to 15 degrees Celsius? Especially when windy (not uncommon here next tot he North Atlantic!) Below which it becomes electric heating. Much larger homes are appearing with, rumoured heating installations costs much higher!
We are, ironically, subjected to acid rain from North American industrial pollution; which afterwards blows out over the Atlantic towards Europe. There's no such thing IOHO, as 'clean coal'; as British cities found out about a century ago? One does recall walking right up to the side of a fully lit up a double decker bus (Unlike the red London buses, were they green? Or was that only Liverpool buses and trams,) in Manchester in 1955/56 and being a few feet away before knowing what it was!
Anyway just for comparison-info/comment. BTW It's about plus 3 degrees C. today (unusually mild for here) snow mostly gone it but feels damp and bone chilling!
What a ridiculous suggestion! You expect me to scrabble around turning off the TRV in one room, turning another one on, spending 30 minutes doing the supper, f'rinstance, then turn off the TRV...and so on...
This is crazy.
My fan heater switches ITSELF on and off once I choose the temperature. (All immaterial now, as I need neither fan heater nor CH since the weather warmed up.)
And it isn't £100 per room, anyway, since that amount is the total extra amount over what I'd normally be paying. Moreover, I am not "heating my home" as you put it. The fan heater gets used in any one room, but only where I am at, including the bathroom. How can I get 10 minutes of warmth from the CH to have a shave and clean my teeth? I can do that easily with a small fan heater.
Hydro, if you have the correct geography, is in fact dirty cheap, as teh fuel is free. Its very similar to nuclear in that respect, although nuclear has the added complexity of steam generation and the actual reactor, so capital costs may be higher, depending on how big a dam has to be built. Hydro dams though have longer lifetimes than most power stations .
a couple of hundred miles of RELIABLE generation to consumer adds about
10% typically to the cost at our rates here (UK)
The problem comes when you have to over specify that to use teh power that e.g. a windfarm MIGHT generate. Or might not. Because the load factor is around 30%, you need typically three times as much grid capacity to fully utilise the windfarm, which is a hidden cost that is almost never mentioned by anyone, and certainly never by the Dynamo Devotees.
I suspect that because when its cold, people run heating 24x7, and when its hot, aircon 24x7 :-)
There you are wrong. Aerial lines may fix faster, but they need fixing more often. For which reason the National Grid here no longer builds any
11KV overheads and all new build houses have underground feeders.
They almost never go wrong.
Whereas we get outages from the overhead 11KV stuff every year. Trees or wing causing them to arc over., or simple insulator degradation causing similar.
Although its 5 times more expensive to underground, in general, the cost benefit from less maintenance makes it ultimately the cheaper way to manage lines at these intermediate voltages.
At higher voltages the capacitative loss to ground makes it infeasible sadly. Unless you use DC. But that has other problems.
Billing methods are
Yes, its very cheap. I doubt even nuclear can match a good hydro power installation.
And of course Canada is home to the CANDU reactor which is also very cheap per Kwh as a generator.
yes, the heatpump doesn't do a good job at REALLY low temps.
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