Electric Dryer Heating Element Testing Question

[Metal Man]

Heating element is not working. I checked the heating element with a meter and it shows it has continuity at the terminals and shows no signs of being broken or grounded when i check it on the housing, visually and with a meter. I do not have a meter to check AC current at the heating element where the wires are plugged onto it. So while i had the dryer running i checked it one of the little two wire circuit testers you can buy to stick into a plug to see if you got fire. It lights up. So my question is, can the element test out ok with the meter but still be bad. I mean, i am sure anything is possible. The element does not heat up or glow at all. Since i am getting voltage to the element and it does not work is it safe to say it is bad. Did some searching on the net, and searched the group for something similiar and did not really find anything. Everything i read is that if a continuity test checks out, the element is good. But like i said, i appears i am getting voltage to the element but it does not heat.

Thanks

[Pop Rivet]

Not an expert, but I have seen an element check OK with continuity, but be bad. I didn't believe it, so I grabbed a couple clip leads (DANGEROUS!) and clipped 120 to the element. It started to heat, then quit. And, it was repeatable. I would simply monitor the voltage to the element - When a hot element is being called for, you should see

120Vac at one end of the element, and zero Vac to ground at the other end. IF so, then the element's bad. 120 measured at both ends of the element indicates something else is wrong. Zero at both ends says something else is wrong. BE CAREFUL - BE SAFE - ONLY DO WHAT YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AND KNOW IS SAFE. HTH Pop

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[Curmudgeon]

When element starts to heat, it expands and "opens" a break you can't see and that the meter doesn't see when it's cold. Get a new element.

[TCS]

When a heating element goes out they go open. You might have a weak element, where one spot is burned almost away or you might a shorted element where there's a shortcut. Both situation can be detected through simply physical inspection.

It it looks good and doesn't measure open, then it's probably good.

[Metal Man]

Thanks for the replys.

Ok, what i have done is connect the heating element to 120 like the pop rivet dood did. It heated up and continued to heat. It did not get red, (is it supposed to and did not because it did not see 240) or is 120 all these elements see? It just started to turn a cherry color when i went ahead and uplugged it(which was about maybe 10minutes) I pointed a little infra red temp gun at it and it was hotter than the thing will read, which is a believe 405F. Also as far as i see the little thermostat dookickies all show continuity. Could the problem be in the timer? or what else to look at? Is it possible to have voltage at the element but for whatever reason not enough? Cause i show voltage there as evidenced by my little circuit tester glowing. But i don't know how much voltage as i don't have a meter to read AC. My meter only has DC voltage capabilities. Trip to the hardware store is in my future i guess. :)

Anyways, thanks again and any more suggestion would be appreciated.

Metal Man

[jeff]

Hi,

Make, model#?

model# helps.

Good so far.

Not normally, the element must be physically broken ot be bad.

You cannot check for 220-240 volts ( for a full size dryer ) AC properly with a light testor.

A copy... Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating ?

A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:

- house fuse or breaker... - heating element ... - burnt wire ... - thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power cord/plug ...

A ohm meter test for these parts is below....

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid