GE oven not heating properly

[rburge58]

I have a GE Mark 27 model#JMS07001AD that heats up but does not come even close to cooking temperature. I think maybe it may be the temperature comtrol. I took the front jpanel off and took the control off. There are 4 spade type connections on the control, two somewhat big wires on one side and a two into one connection and a single connection on the other side. I tried testing for continuty on the two bigger wire connections by first pulling off one wire and testing for continuity between the two connections and then putting the wire back on and doing the same to the other bigger wire. I have continuity between those two connections. I tried to look for a wiring diagram on the stove but could not find one, so I don't even know if I am checking the right connections. I did check for continuity on the "thermostat" wire that runs thru the oven and there is continuity there. So if anybody can help me with this it will be appreciated.

Richard

[Appliance Repair Aid]

Hi,

Do the elements work? Does the broil get red when set on broil, does the bake get red when set on bake? If yes the wiring should be ok and possibly/probably is a bad oven temp control. If the elements do not get red, that would have to be investigated ( burnt wire, bad selector switch, bad oven control, burnt wire, ect ).

Usually glued on the back panal or possible rolled up in the consol area. This may help...

range repair manual for GE and Hotpoint units.

thermostat assembly. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[Ross Mac]

Last time I saw this one, one leg of the 240 volts was open and only 120 volts was hitting the element. Check the incoming voltage, then follow the connections and see if one leg disappears....good luck on your repair...Ross

[rburge58]

Hi,

Do the elements work? Does the broil get red when set on broil, does the bake get red when set on bake? If yes the wiring should be ok and possibly/probably is a bad oven temp control. If the elements do not get red, that would have to be investigated ( burnt wire, bad selector switch, bad oven control, burnt wire, ect ).

Tried the elements and they will heat up properly. The broil function does the same as the as the bake function. Will heat up but not enough to cook anything.

Usually glued on the back panal or possible rolled up in the consol area. Pulled the stove out, nothing on the back panel, I will keep looking.

Thank you, Richard

[Ross Mac]

Measure the voltage at the back of the heating elemet and see if you have

240-220 volts or so. If not, back track until you find where it is missing......good luck, Ross

[Ross Mac]

Here is a good site for troubleshooting.....hope it helps!....Ross

[rburge58]

Ross,

Measured the voltage coming into the stove at 240 Voltage on the top element 56 Voltage on the bottom element 65 Voltage on the top element on broil not even 1 volt

So I have the correct voltage going in and I assume not enough voltage to the elements.

Richard

[Appliance Repair Aid]

voltage

How did you check the elements then?

Many ( not all ) GE ranges will put 110-120 volts AC to the broil and

220-240 volts AC to the bake element during the bake mode and during the broil the broil element will get 220-240 volts and the bake will get 0 ( zero ).

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[Ross Mac]

Ok....turn on the oven with the meter connected...it should show full voltage when you first turn it on...of course the thermostat will turn it on and off and as the appliance man says, the broiler element may be on at low voltage. In any event, the voltage you are stating tells me that one leg of the 220 to 240 volts or so is open ... follow the wire to the next device which is probably the selector switch. Perhaps that is open on one of the legs....hope that helps and hey, if not there are a lot of other sharp folks out here to help you...good luck, Ross

[rburge58]

I checked the elements by pulling the top element out with the wires still hooked up, turned on the temperature switch up high, and turned the bake switch on. Did the same for the broiler function. Checked the bottom element the same way.

As Ross mentioned I think I need to check the selector switch.

Richard

[Appliance Repair Aid]

Hi,

A copy:

*With the element removed from the range, check across the terminals of the element for continuity. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms, with an ohm meter. To see if the element is grounded, read between each side of the element terminals to the sheath of the element. If you read continuity, the element is grounded and should be replaced.*

Not always easy but a common way to split a problem....bake element should have 220-240 volts AC during the bake mode....remove both wires and isolate so they won't touch anything.....turn on bake mode and check each bake element wire to ground....hopefully one will show

110-120 volts AC to ground and the other will be dead....follow the dead one back to where it comes from. jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[Ross Mac]

Good Advice....Ross