I just replaced the igniter and it's lighting. Oven works fine.
I watched it as it went through the cycle and I noticed while the gas is on
the igniter is on. When the gas goes off the igniter goes off.
Is this correct?
That does not make sense. Why ignitor has tp be kept on once gas ignite?
No wonder it does not last. Wonder how many ignitors the oven will need
in it's life span. Furnace has a flame sensor to watch flame.
Very weird design.
A gas furnace with such an igniter has a draft inducer fan that will
blow any unburned gas out the flue. I assume since the oven in a home
kitchen has no such power vent, the designers err on the side of caution
and want no unburned gas to escape into a kitchen.
I have only replaced one of those, and I honestly don't remember if it
stayed on as described or not. A friend had a rental property that she
was finally unloading, and she thought the stove in it was better than
the one in her house, so I helped them swap stoves. (personally I would
have rather had the one originally in her house). Anyway, after getting
it installed in the house, the oven wouldn't work-- bad ignitor. I guess
in moving it, we jarred it enough to break it. I replaced it and seem to
recall the new one was about $25-30. I do know that the gas valve will
not open until the ignitor is on and glowing, and the instructions with
the new ignitor specified that amperage of the new one must match the
amps of the original for it to work. Personally, I like-- and have-- a
gas cooktop and electric ovens. Larry
I just had the ignitor on my GE gas oven replaced, and the service guy
confirmed this is how they work. My ignitor failed while the gas was
running, and in consequence the gas valve shut down.
He said they have an average lifespan of 6-7 years. Mine lasted 13
years, so I ain't complaining.
Thanks. I never really checked to see if that was how they worked. Seemed
strange to me too, but TDD's explanation seems to make sense.
I bought 2 igniters in case the 1st one was a dud.
I got them on eBay for a 4th of what the local supplier wanted. :-)
$19.95 + $5.00 Shipping. He got it to me in 3 days. I'm impressed.
An appliance repair guy quoted me $160.00 (parts and labor) over the phone
This is the guy that I got it from if anyone is interested:
I worked for Sears, in 1996. I had thier price book for a
while, wish I'd taken it out and copied it. The cheapest
no-heat call was $130 in 1996 dollars. "Educate customer".
I'm sure that 13 years later, I could charge 1996 Sears
prices, and make a handsome living.
Thanks for the field report. I'd sure like it, if people
would post prices, here.
The license fee went up by about 50% or so. I don't remember
the numbers, but in NYS the fee is perhaps one and a half or
maybe more. That's hardly "no inflation". Referring to a
person you've not met (nor I, actually) as snivelling and
boasting. That's totally absurd to try to be such a mind
reader. Your credibility went way down.
I'll note in passing that while the government inflation numbers say
inflation is low or zilch, their numbers are based on a rather archaic
'market basket' of goods, that has little to do with what a lot of us
actually buy. Yes, my energy costs are a lot lower than they were a year
ago, but (for me at least), almost all the other things I buy are up
anywhere from a little to a lot. My health insurance increase for
calendar year 2010 will likely more than wipe out the cost of living
increase I am getting. I am fortunate that I have a decent cashflow, and
won't be against the wall like a lot of people are, but it will affect
how likely I am to buy toys, and (to bring it on topic for this group),
it reduces the odds I will do anything other than necessary PM and
repairs to this house. The new deck, redone bathroom, new countertops
and kitchen floor, etc, may end up waiting for the next owner, because
in the current market I would get little or no return at resale from
spending the money. (I'm a guy, and live alone, so my standards are low.
If there was a SWMBO in the house, the criteria would obviously be
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