Invisible fixings for removable wall panel: suggestions welcomed

Which of course raises the linked question of how to attach the foamboard itself to the subframe (or is it the other way around?) I was thinking of a combination of adhesive and countersunk screws (or bolts) at least around the edges where they would be hidden by the masking. But I'm not at all sure how well screws or bolts would hold the material, especially if countersunk: I think there's a good chance that they could tear through.

Jim, don't forget that that's 20lb for just the plain board. I couldn't hinge it without adding a subframe - it's far too flexible. I suppose I could use aluminium, but it would still be additional weight.

I think my attitude to the weight was born of surprise: I was expecting it to be (and more to the point, to feel) considerably lighter.

plenty of friction hinges can deal with all that - see the pdf.

check the sizes tho cos your frame(s) will need to have enough depth to fix too.

can you look into framing the board ingto some slotted wooden? section? that would give something to fix all these suggestions to without involving screwheads...

Jim K

I think so as well, counter sunk penny washers? But then you have the thickness of the washer proud of the board surface.

But the stay will have to produce more force onto the board than that. It's 9kg straight down in the middle. Once you move the support point away from the middle and at angle the required force goes up.

That might just about be acceptable (though I would prefer not to have to do it): the black edge-masking will be adhesive velvet strip material and a covered washer would be, if not invisible, at least not that obtrusive.

That would work as long as the frame material had more depth on the back (it would need to be thick enough, presumably, to accept screws) than on the front (where I would want it to be as unobtrusive as possible for purely aesthetic reasons). It might mean having the lengths specially milled: I'm not sure that my routing prowess would be up to it.

I'm simply not too keen on the notion of having something that large and that (relatively) weighty suspended over my head while I was doing whatever the screen had been moved in order for me to do, however within the spec of the hinge-stays it is.

time for some experiments methinks!!

Cheers Jim K

"sash balance" - the springy bits appear to come separate from the brackets.

Owain

Just glue it on to to a frame, any of the gunable slightly flexible panel adhesives or silicone or MS to allow a bit of differential expansion with the frame.

Straight on to back of the foamcore flush with the edge, no routing neccesary ,bind the velvet round edges to rear, spray adhesive and staple gun.

Frame inevitably adds weight ,but its already only comfortably a two person lift, 1*1 or 2*1 on edge to avoid timber warping and pulling screen out of shape, ply triangles on corners, glue and staple to hold the corners square.

Couple of hooks in wall for top corners, possibly couple of captive bolts bottom corners to jack it out and lose any keystoning with high mounted projector.

Cheers Adam

Ha! I like that. KISS.

Why have the frame on the wall and another frame on the board for rigidity? There is no need. Make the board rigid and just hang it on the wall.

A decent projecter has keystone correction built in. I think a screen sticking out at the bottom would look odd, you'd get away with the top out but that would make keystone from a projector above the center line worse.

OK, thanks for that.

No it isn't. But it's close, and any frame would have to be as light as possible. To end up with something that absolutely requires two people is out of the question.

And keystoning isn't going to be an issue: I'm not going to go to all this trouble with the screen and then compromise the picture quality by mounting the projector badly.

Not exactly aesthetically pleasing though!

With its attendant picture degradation. That's not going to be an issue, fortunately.

Yes indeed. I'll report back...

Thanks for those links. I'm still not clear on just how those spiral spring things work and how they replace the traditional cord, pulley and weight arrangement. I'll investigate further.

Its to get screen parallel to wall if its hanging from top its possibly angled down , with projector above centre line makes a greater angle to try and correct, hence jack bottom out slightly.

Cheers Adam

Your welcome, with 24` of perimeter any decent glue should hold 20lbs without mechanical assistance depending on subtstrate and contact area.

That is tricky, timber be first option but would be relatively heavy with a warp risk, tubular plastics mebbe

Unless it`s rear projected with projector on centre axis of screen , keystoning always needs some correction.

Cheers Adam