Flush timeswitch

Does anyone know of a timeswitch >=13A with boost override that sits flush like other accessories (10mm or so out from surface). The smallest I can find are by TimeGuard but they are not what I would call flush (38mm!).

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want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange jutting out over the work surface. Does anyone else have a set up like this?

Alex

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Reply to
Alexander Lamaison
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> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

Depending on what you want to control, one option might be a DIN rail mounted timer in the CU and then a normal switch in the kitchen to trigger it.

Reply to
John Rumm

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>>>
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>>> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

If we had a DIN rail in our wooden CU with rewireable fuses ;)

But the real reason for having it in the kitchen is so that SWMBO doesn't have to go into the outhouse (where the cylinder is) to press the Boost button.

Reply to
Alexander Lamaison

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>>>>> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

Well same logic can apply - auxiliary DIN enclosure for a timer, and a remote slim switch.

Reply to
John Rumm

I have TimeGuard ZV700

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enough power handling for you but the depth dimension on the website for that is 50 mm. The one I have in my hand is 46 mm deep and that includes rear projection of 13mm, leaving 33mm for the front. It's that central bump that takes it out to 33 the flater sides are around 22 mm. When placed aginst an MK 20 A switch it's not out of place.

Looking at the picture of the FST11A the depth:width ratio doesn't look right for 38:85, that's more or less 1:2... Get your ruler out and measure the image on your screen and do a bit of maths. I come out with somthing over 20 mm for the height or 1:4 which does look more like the image. Also look at the size of the fixing screw heads they are about 6 mm normally 3 or 4 of those make up the depth of the box.

Those dimensions are overall and there is something sticking out the back...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

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You could fit a deep backbox. There are 50mm ones available.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Wright

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>>>

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>>> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

I'm not sure I see how that would help. The surface part of the timer would still protrude the same amount, wouldn't it?

Alex

Reply to
Alexander Lamaison

Interesting. What I might do then is buy one of these anyway because I can always use it out of sight for the electric towel rail. Then I'll get to see it in the flesh and test how far it really will stick out.

Thanks for the advice.

Alex

Reply to
Alexander Lamaison

How would the switch override the timer to do the boost?

Alex

Reply to
Alexander Lamaison

Depends on the type of timer, and the type of switch. Some timers may already include a boost capability, in which case the switch only needs a push to make action to trigger it. Alternatively a normal timer could be connected in parallel with a 20A plate switch, allowing the choice of "on" or "timed".

Reply to
John Rumm

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> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

How about:

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Reply to
John Rumm

If the timer settings will remain fairly static, how about putting a cheap timer in the outhouse and wiring something like this in parallel with it in the kitchen:

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Reply to
Mathew Newton

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>>>
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>>> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

combination with your parallel conductors idea it might work though.

As it happens I was looking at the regs on parallel conductors yesterday. It's not clear to me if they allow this setup.

523.8 "... measures shall be taken to achieve equal load current sharing between them ..."

Having the timer and boost in parallel will not share the load. Unless the boost happened to be active during the timed period, only one of the parallel conductors would be loaded.

Alex

Reply to
Alexander Lamaison

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>>>>> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

Oh. 523.8 goes on to say "... or special consideration shall be given to the load current sharing to meet the requirements of Regulation

523.1". In other words, as long the cable passing through the timer and the cable passing through the boost switch are each rated to supply the 13A on their own, it's all ok?

Alex

Reply to
Alexander Lamaison

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>>>>>>> I want it to go alongside the kitchen sockets so would look strange

Indeed - either a DIN mounted timer in an enclose elsewhere, or a conventional immersion switch somewhere less visually objectionable to provide the normal timed operation. Then this device "wire ORed" to provide an override.

Yup, load sharing only really becomes an issue when you are attempting to parallel up cables to increase available current carrying capacity. You then need to consider if they are equal resistance paths and hence will load share equally, and also whether each individual cable is adequately fault protected by the protective device at the origin which is sized to overload protect the group of cables.

For your circumstances you are not doing that, so its not a problem.

Reply to
John Rumm

Or actually visit an electrical wholesaler to see one in the flesh before buying... If you want to be really fussy about how it will look next to the other accesories take them along on a dualbox and put them next to each other, or be really cheeky and borrow those bits at the wholesalers. B-)

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

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ARW

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