Interior wall opinions

Yes, stud walls are easy and the default choice for me. And they are relatively lightweight so need no foundations (sometimes a doubled up joist is recommended).

If I was filling in a gap in a block wall, I would probably use blocks.

I made a sound proofing wall an inch away from a party wall consisting of a sandwich of cement board and glass fibre reinforced sand / cement. The idea was to produce a thin wall with a lots of mass and that hit the spot !

Simon.

What are the criteria?

Bill

What base does it need?

Will it stick to woodchip for example?

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What base does it need?

Will it stick to woodchip for example?/q

Or will whatever's holding the woodchip on hold the plasterboards up?

Usually you'd want to knock all the old off & reboard from scratch.

What's the current wall's construction?

Jim K

Stone & brick walls, plastered, wallpapered.

I thought about batten and board as I reckon it will be quickest and cleanest.

I'd like to have it knocked back and plastered properly but I'm thinking much mess and expense.

/> What's the current wall's construction?

Stone & brick walls, plastered, wallpapered.

I thought about batten and board as I reckon it will be quickest and cleanest.

I'd like to have it knocked back and plastered properly but I'm thinking much mess and expense. /q

Stick 9.5mm taper edge pboards on with low expansion foam, add some screws if you prefer, scrim & fill tapered joints hoping you can avoid need for plastering....

You'll still have to redo skirts, and window & door frames may look naff...

Jim K

Really? Surely it would be a ballache getting them level?

All the windows and woodwork will be coming out anyway.

/ > Stick 9.5mm taper edge pboards on with low expansion foam,

Really? Surely it would be a ballache getting them level?/q

Somehow I thought you'd find issues.

Let us know what you end up doing.

Jim K

Eh?

I'd have thought it would be difficult to tamp down and would keep expanding.

Low expansion foam doesn't "keep expanding" - that's pretty much the point.

At the risk of pissing anyone off.... :)

Does it stay pliable long enough to get the edges levelled up nicely?

Yes - you have about 15-25 minutes of "fiddling" time depending on a lot of factors.

I'll give it a do then & practise on an inconspicuous area.

I usually do a combination of the drywall foam and a few screws in the top, bottom and middle (letting in a timber wedge or piece of plywood, etc). I fix the top and bottom and then "pull in" the middle with a few screws. It helps to have a long straight edge or spirit level to keep subsequent boards in line. Its a lot easier on the back than drywall adhesive and has insulating properties so avoids cold spots on external walls. Simon.

We drilled a bunch of holes in the boards, attached them loosely to the wall with a screw in the middle and one in each corner, put a load of foam behind them via the holes and adjusted the screws to get them nice and flat/level.

It appears to have worked a treat.