Inaccessible junction box / electrical crimping tools

I want to fit a junction box in the ceiling void. It will be above a lathe and plaster ceiling, and below a tiled floor, so describing it as "accessible" is a bit of a stretch. I have a recollection that the only permitted jointing technology in such circumstances is crimping (possibly also soldering, but I'm not sure about that).

Searching for "electrical crimping tool" finds lots of crimps for electronics, comms, etc, but nothing that claims to be suitable for mains work. What do people use? Any other advice?

Reply to
Martin Bonner
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Well I am a using

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some jobs.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

it was discussed), but I need the 04.

I've also found the wiki on "Cable crimping", but that doesn't discuss how to join more than two cables together (poke more than one cable in each end?).

This all comes about because I've already made the joint with the junction box, and one of the lights suddenly stopped ... and then suddenly started again (both times involving significant vibration in the floor above).

My immediate reaction was "lose connection", but I was really puzzled that all the connectors felt cold; if the joint was lose, I'd expect it to get warm.

Reply to
Martin Bonner

I've often seen people write 'loose' when they mean 'lose', but I think this is the first time I've spotted the opposite affliction. :-)

But to get back to the point, I'd only expect a loose joint to get warm if it was making a partial (i.e. resistive) connection. If it's simply intermittent (sometimes making a good connection, sometimes making no connection at all) there's no reason to expect significant heating.

Richard.

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Reply to
Richard Russell

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'm a complete convert to these. They're really quick and easy to use, and can be put in inaccessible locations as well. Check out the videos on their Support page.

dan.

Reply to
dent

Wago. Marvellous things. No tools, affordable, do the job.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

The Ashley JBs I linked to operate just like Wago connectors but in a JB with with cable grips

Reply to
ARWadsworth

As thers have said, there are various maintenence free JB about now which are idal for these jobs. However to answer this specific point:

Yup, generally you can get more than one wire into each terminal end - although you may need to go up a terminal size in some cases - and this might mean folding a single wire over on the other end to reach the minimum wire size required for the terminal.

Reply to
John Rumm

Me too.

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Yes, those look useful too. I'll pick some up next time I'm over at TLC.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I've seen it argued on here that a junction box above a ceiling *is* accessible as you can just cut a hole in the ceiling to access it.

Though, a chocblock wrapped in insulating tape, as I seem to find quite frequently, is not acceptable.

JGH

Reply to
jgharston

Soldering's also permitted, but practically you need to provide some sort of strain relief for the joint, as solder is very weak.

NT

Reply to
Tabby

In my experience, when an intermittent connetion is on, it's rarely a good connection, they they almost always get at least warm and often hot.

Reply to
Skipweasel

Long long before this group existed I installed a junction box somewhere on one of my kitchen walls that is plastered over and even possibly behind a kitchen unit -- hmmm !

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

You would not be the first one... I dug one out of my neighbours wall once after following a lump of 13A flex back far enough. Found it grafted onto a 30A circuit in a 6A JB buried in the kitchen wall just above the sink. I think I may have teased him about that!

Reply to
John Rumm

The 773 push-wire, or the 222 lever connectors?

Reply to
Martin Bonner

Do you provide strain relief when soldering copper pipes?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I use the push-wire ones mostly, because they are smaller (a 6-way push is the same size as a 3-way lever) and so you can get more connections in a box. The push-fits are mostly 24A though, so if you want to wire up higher power circuits you either need to use the bigger push-wires (41A), or the levers (32A). Levers are very convenient for temporary work (the push-fit do come apart, but not as easily). Anything using flexible stranded cable - light fittings for example - needs the lever sort.

dan.

Reply to
dent

Yup, one pipe is swaged into the other... If you try making a butt joint in pipe it will break easily.

Reply to
John Rumm

What's the right word that describes all these connectors, ie choc strip, junction boxes, wagos etc? I can't think of anything better than 'connectors.'

NT

Reply to
Tabby

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