If all the suggestions above fail, I'd take the saddle off and place the exposed stem in a vice so to crush and hold the top 1" or so. I'd then twist the frame clockwise and then anticlockwise on the stem until it moved. If that doesn't work it's a hacksaw job!
The above works best if you put a piece of wood in first to prvent the post fomr being completely crushed. DAMHIKIJKOK?
-- Guy
A steel seat pin is so cheap that only the bottom bit needs preserving to get the diameter - even then, I use shim on 1 of mine. Any bike that 'merit's a steel pin can't be too posh.
Oh yes it is! A good penetraing fluid I mean.
WD40 is apretty good lubricant IME. Sold as "The world's number one multi-purpose lubricant." Sue them if you don't believe them :-)
OK I got it out!!!
I had tried WD40 earlier but it did not seem to make much difference it was almost as if the saddle stem and frame were one piece of metal.
Another thing I did was to use a large pair of locking pylers
I gave up on the ice idea because it is too impractical and it's hard to make stuff cold, I though a better idea would be to boil up a kettle ot water :O)
Anyway I boiled it up and with the bike on the ground I poured the boiling water slowly over the top of the frame stem. Problem is it runs away very quickly...... so....I got a small rag (cheap dish washing rag and wrapped/tied it around the stem then poured boliing water over it. This seemed to keep the heat and water where I want as I found by hearly scaldinig myself touhing it so see if it was hot :O)
Anway I put the bike back up and whacked the saddled stem a few times with the hammer and it did seem to shifting slightly so I sprayed soome more WD40 on the stem and gave it a few more whacks untill it went down futher, the futher it went the easier it got. Then back on with the saddle and it was not too much trouble to pull it out completely. A good time to give the stem a good cleaninig I though.
I am not sure which worked best, I had WD40 in it over night, I expect manipulating the gap help but I reckon the boililng water on the stem helped a lot. Ovbiously this will also transfer some heat to the inner stem, but I assume dirt and rust and air etc will help prevent this somewhat. I know from replacing a CPU's heat sink you have to use a special thermal compound to join the heat sink to the CPU to because heat transfer is pretty poor otherwise. I think getting the 'timing right helps too' if you leave it too long the inner stem will have more chance to warm up.
Anyway I am pleased with that as I though it would never shift, I had tried shifting it year ago I seem to remember. The good old stuck jam jar lid trick seem to work it's wonders!!
I had tried that but it did not seem to help much, I am not sure if much actually penetrated but I left it overnight which may have helped.
Yes I remembered WD40 was a water repellant too but it was all I had, I normally have some 3 in 1 type oil, indeed I do have some....somewhere... although it does seem 'thicker' than WD40 but that may be a deception.
Astrolan does not google very well. Spelling?
I didn't fancy ruining the paint work, anyway I found a kettle of boiling water poured on a bit of thin rag wrapped a few times around the stem worked very nicely it gets the heat where you want it and holds it there very nicely, and it's cheaper than a heat gun and easier to do!!
Yes I realised that the types would do a fair bit of absorsion but it was still clear that the 'whack' was being transmitted to the join so I didn't bother with placing anything solid under the frame base.
It seemed to ge looser the further down it went so I took the oppertunity to get the oiled saddle shaft right down to get some lubricant in there. Don't think I acyually have any grease, oil and WD40 yes, will have to get some ;O)
I could not twist it at all without some of the other remedies I used. Also I have a broken ankle, out of the cast but still pretty weak so it was no so easy to apply a huge ammount to force, I didn't want to end up back in plaster again :O)
Actually the reason I wanted to lower to saddle was becasue of my ankle so I could use the bike to get around a bit as opposed to hobbilng around like, for want of a better word, a 'spaz'.
Walking at the monent is aout half speed at best and too much of it seems to make it worse ATM.
Previously the saddle was so high I could just about touch the ground with my tip of my toe on one foot, rather dangerous for me the monent, so I have taken it down about 7 inches altough that makes me feel rather hunched up riding. It was also bloody hard getting onto the bike. I will have to experiment a bit to find some sort of happy medium, safe but rideable.
In message , Dave Liquorice writes
So, Plus Gas mixed with KY Jelly must be the ultimate ubiquitous DIY spray then ...
Heating the seat post will make it worse, sticking it into a bucket of ice might help but boiling water on a rag wrapped around the frame stem seemed to work well, it gets in plenty of heat and does not damage the paint work!
On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 18:28:36 GMT, "The Medway Handyman" had this to say:
Clearly you've never used real penetrating fluid.
It certainly lubricates any rubber or frictional surfaces in cassette decks. So well, in fact, that they will never ever ever work as intended again ... !! :-)
Arfa
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Nige Danton saying something like:
From beyond the grave. Damn shame, I always enjoyed reading his stuff.
The idea of heating the seatpin is that you get thermal movement between the seatpin and the frame tube - it doesn't matter that the seatpin is expanding, all you're trying to do is crack the corrosion that's making it stick, so you can get some penetrating oil in the gap. I think in a previous discussion here it was concluded that ice and boiling water don't really create enough of a temperature differential to be useful.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "The Medway Handyman" saying something like:
Want some?
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.